Browsing Tag

# this

Hello All
Thank you for visiting my channel This video is my first video recorded with my voice So, I am so sorry if I sound a bit nervous Or not so good But I want to try to explain Or to share what I have learn on my journey learning this microcontroller called Arduino which is superb This one is my first project Off course, when I first made it, it was not look like this as you might have seen at my previous videos,
I only used protoboard which have many holes And connected with cables all over here and there and I was using Arduino Mega development board It is my first development board But then I try to learn how to design my own pcb, to make it simple using minimum components as you can see here Only Atmel’s ATMega328P-PU Which is also the core of Arduino Uno the Famous one This also burned with Arduino Uno’s bootloader So they are basically the same And for this LED, it have dimension of 4x4x4 So the matrix is 4×4 with 4 layers total of 64 LEDs This is 1 color LED Cube So each of it only have 2 pins Anode and Cathode And to light up each of these LEDs we must connect
the Anode and Cathode to the right pole Anode must be connected to positive pole,
or the vcc of 5v or 3.3v And the Cathode must be connected to ground or the Negative pole The theory is simple At Arduino, in this chip, Whenever we do digitalWrite HIGH and LOW We actually connecting the pin to VCC or Ground At digitalWrite HIGH, it will connected to positive pole or vcc, either it 5v or 3.3v depend on your source And if we do digitalWrite LOW, it will be connected to Ground So, Each one of this LED,
controlled using 2 pin And these LEDs formed a matrix There are what we called columns, There are 16 Columns Here is..
First column, 1 Here it have the names on the silkscreen 1, 2, 3, 4 5, 6, 7, 8, and so on until 16 Here are total 16 Cathodes The Cathodes connected from top to bottom, So each line of 4 cathode formed a column So to turn on a LED in one of the column, we have to connect the column pin to Ground Or doing digitalWrite LOW to that column’s pin And for the Anode, are connected for each layers All Anodes pin at 1 layer are connected together This LED, and others at its side So here we have 4 groups of Anode,
Forming 4 layers of LEDs Which is connected through 4 wire to the board As you can see at the back,
there are 4 Resistors for the layers These Resistors are to limit the current flowing through the LEDs Because LEDs tend to draw a lot of current, so we need to limit it so our LEDs won’t blow So we need the resistors Beside to protect the LEDs, it also to protect our chip’s pins Here we also have few Capacitors, to smoothing the noises we might have at the power Here I also use a slide switch, for On/Off switch. And this momentary push button is connected to reset pin So if we press this button, it will trigger reset This circuit actually is very simple This what make me very interested to learn Arduino After explained all that, I also want to add some update At previous sketch, the version 1,
(supposed : Universal Asynchronous, Receiver-Transmitter) Here I am using the one from FTDI This chip is good The problem is, when using this Here it has vcc pin The vcc pin is supplying current, the one we can set to 5v or 3.3v This must not connected to a circuit that running on its own power like this because then there will be dual power source that will be conflicting The bigger current will flow to the lower one, one of our device will be damaged I have also made a little board which is a digital isolator which actually only 1 chip, functioning as an isolator it will isolate voltage from the programmer and the target circuit so the voltage won’t be connected at all this become the isolator Let me show you so I can programmed this circuit while it is running on its own power source here it have output pin for ftdi At the back there is the pin’s name, but I did not soldered the pin header on it So I’ll just plug this header in the holes, will also work as long it connected Ok, now we try First we make sure the port and board selected are correct (Sorry the menu did not recorded) The board is arduino uno The board is arduino uno Port 6 Now we will.. upload As you can see when it connected to the programmer, There is 1 column can not light up Because there are 2 pin used for TX and RX, so the program can not access But no problem, we just want to test the sleep function After animation TurnOnAndOffAllByColumnSideWays, Then it will…
wait a seconds I think this it is yes nah it will enter the sleep mode I’ll just unplug this This already sleep it won’t wake up Until we reset Then it on again How much current used when it sleep? it is interesting to find out fortunately I have a power supply that can show the value of used current lets we try it Ok, lets turn it on,
I am using 5 volts Make sure we did not exceed 5 volt 5 volt is max sorry, turn on first output on we can see the current usage here when all are on, only 0.02 – 0.04 not so big we wait until it goes to sleepmode I also want to know how much current it use when sleep we want that it used minimum current while in sleep mode Spiral in out ok a little more yes look here 0.0000
I am sure there will be a little current used maybe some nA But my device is limited to only 4 digit but this is so good so our device will not turn on all night Until some time, it will turn off by itself Ok, thats all my explanation for the new version and how this circuit works 1 more thing When I made this board, I must order some minimum quantity I still have some spare, if there is anyone interested to have this board I will share the link where to get this board maybe at marketplace Maybe I will give option whether it is only the board or with components I also have prepared to be used with a power regulator So you can use it with regulator as long it have the pin Input, Ground, Output it is important, you must pay attention to it I will give link to get it And also if there is anyone interested with this little board this digital isolator I will also give the link for it for this one I’ll prepared it soldered I can be connected directly to ftdi all the pins are designed specially to be use with FTDI USB-UART boards This is very insteresting, because we will able to program our circuit without having to disconnect it first We will able to directly test how the program work with the circuits without this, we might need to use an ic pinset like this pull out the chip and using some board to program the chip may be something like this I also have made this kind of board this is actually an ATMega328P-PU Breakout board It have all the pin descriptions If I am designing circuit or making some schematic, this is very handy I have few version of this board this version is using ZIF Socket Zero Insertion Force
I will keep sharing All I have learn, so we all can learn together
Thank you and see you..

Subscribe to our channel Press the bell icon
to never miss the latest update Welcome to Dubai Bro.
– Any progress in your work? Lots! It goes on rent for 8 hours everyday. The girl goes on rent?
– Yes? Oh, not the girl… I’m talking
she is Natasha now. I found this from the Indian embassy.
Here is her address. You are quite fast at work
these days. Very good. Come on, let us go. This bungalow is wonderful! Hey! That’s the bungalow. Oh! This one… …it has one balcony,
two window and one main gate. A tree too,
though I don’t know it’s name… …but I’ll make a note. Are you a broker?
We came here to investigate… …and not to deal in
real estate here. Leave this and take this. It is good that you brought
this baton along. People here keep a lot of dogs,
don’t know why. This is a mic and not a baton. Can I speak. You don’t have to speak
but listen to it. Okay.
– Go there. I will hear. Will you hear with this? I will see with this…
and hear with this. Just go now!
– Okay. Natasha!
– Here she come. Turn it! turn it! Not you… turn the mic. Turn it the other way round. Do it. How she look? Isn’t Natasha sexy? This is Natasha or 70s old women.
– What? Take a look. She seems to be an old hand. I think that this guy,
Karan, deals in old scrap. Natasha! Why is she calling out to herself?
– Don’t know. Natasha!
– What happen Ms. Sweety? Why are you shouting? Natasha seems to be a man! What all did she change
along with her name? I am starting to doubt Karan. It is getting late for a shooting.
Where is Natasha? Ms. Sweety,
Natasha is in her room. I’m sorry for the delay.
Only five more minutes. Come quickly.
– Is she Natasha? Yes… I am dead sure. Hey guys! If you like this video.
Please Like it. We aim for 10K Likes. Share this video as much as possible. Don’t forget to subscribe &
Also press the bell icon. Thank you!

so I was searching through eBay looking
for things to fill my mailbag with as you do and I spotted this little kit
here which looks pretty interesting but the closer I got looking at it I
realised I don’t need to buy this as a kit I think I’ve already got all the stuff I
need to make this hanging around right here so that’s what I’m doing today so
further online searching found me a schematic which I can use and it’s a
super simple circuit a 555 couple capacitors handful or resistors some
push buttons and a speaker nothing to it so let’s grab the parts
needed okay
now I’m ready this is “get up offa that thang soulful brown ale from
devil-may-care brewing in Winnipeg and I’ve got a bunch of this other stuff to
you what we need out of here let’s clear this out a little bit is one two three
four five 1k resistors there’s some and they need a I need one 10k resistor over
there I’ll explain this circuit in a second
that’s 10k and I need a 10k pot there’s a bunch of them
both of my assortment here under nano farad is the 104 ‘s and a 10 nano where
are they so how this circuit works is basically it is an oscillator right
there and the frequency of the oscillator is set by these two resistors
and that capacitor there this capacitor is a DC buckling to the speaker all
right I need a speaker um I’ll find oh there’s one that’ll do
okay um so yeah that’s just DC block there so you can vary the frequency
either by changing that capacitor or this resistance between that point there
and pin 2 and how this basically does it is
there’s a 10k pot there so it can be anything from 0 to 10 K and then if you
push the first button that puts just that one into the circuit creating your
your first oscillator circuit and then as you push a different button it adds
1k to the circuit except for the last one like I had is 10k I don’t know why
and these could realistically be anything as good that one there is
online calculators that you can use to figure this all out let me go and find
one so literally the first hit on searching for 5 5 5 calculator comes up
with of this so our circuit in this position here between pin 6 and 2 and
ground ours is a hundred nano you could do this
the hard way I’m not going to I don’t feel like going
through the calculations you could you could look up what the calculation is so
any r1 between VCC and pin 7 is 1k in our case and r2 is the one that varies
so with just the with the pot the first button is going to give you anywhere
between 10k and nothing so that will be 687 ohms or 687 Hertz if it’s at 0 it’s
gonna be 14 kilohertz which will be hard to hear if it’s in the middle it’ll be
like 1.3 and then let’s go back to 10 and as we go along each button you can
see the frequency changing down here as you go along and then I think what is
the last one’s going to be I think it’s 24 is about right yeah so there’s the
frequencies that we’re going to get out of the thing or yeah so that’s and you
could keep adding resistors to to get different increments you could change
those increments as however you want you can make them go every every five K do
that okay that’s getting a little bit low 30 you know so that’s there’s all
kinds of possibilities and that’s just with that one frequency compare
capacitor in there we could also change that to a 10 nano farad and then okay
six Hertz it’s a little bit low for what we want but we could put in bigger
resistors and get the same thing out of it so you can you vary those however a
variable capacitor is a little bit more opinion he has to do than variable
resistors and we could do it with a whole bunch of capacitors too right just
switching different capacitors with the buttons and leave the resistors alone
but resistors are cheaper so I’m just gonna throw this thing together
off-camera mostly and then we’ll come back throwing putting things into bread
boards is pretty straightforward I don’t think anybody needs to watch me doing
that too much and this speaker from ground back it in there you to the
capacitor those of you who are observing carefully the being me of notice that I
pulled a 10 nano farad capacitor out of my parts – instead of a 10 a micro farad
capacitor this is in fact in micro farad capacitor so I think that’s all the
connections now then put some power on here schematics asking for a 9-volt
battery I’m just gonna use my 9 volt power supply here variable power supply
which I have set for nine volts and now let’s drop that back down just in case
hundred and some milliamps shouldn’t blow things up okay
power on not making any noise it shouldn’t be making any noise until
Yahoo and the part should adjust that get in there you
I hate slaughtered Scuderi yeah man I don’t know where the cameras
gonna get that so let’s just go down there okay so that’s with the 10k pot in
there at whatever it’s set to that’s adding this 1k resistor that’s adding
this 1k resistor so that was this push button here so that’s this one this one
this one this one so that is all the 1k resistors and the 10k part then this
last one adds in the last 10 K pot so we have 10 11 12 13 14 + question why
probably five ish so there this is just a very basic little 555 circuit I mean I
could tune it to actual notes using that calculator again and putting a bunch of
pots probably 1k pots in these positions instead of these resistors then I could
tune each note to something that’s a lot of effort or you could add a whole bunch
more notes if you had a bigger breadboard and more push buttons and
stuff just keep adding on here forever these resistors could easily be anything
and you move them around I’m gonna take that 10k resistor out of the last
position there and replace it with I move a 1k down there and let’s put this
guy sort of in the middle that’s actually not gonna change anything is it
well it is but it isn’t this is gonna be the same it’s just that skip is gonna
happen actually yeah now we have three low notes and two high notes or I could
put in a a couple more I could do it all with 10 keys I guess it would drop down
a whole bunch more but you can use like I said you can use whatever resistor you
want so that’s negligible difference there
because that lasts into one key with the 10 keys in front of it let’s move him
back up to the front here and just have these last two be 10 keys then we should
hear more of a difference this is just a fun little circuit to play with an
experiment with and get used to how the different resistor values affect the 555
so these two should still be high and that’s actually right that one’s oh and
that one should be a whole bunch more low again and we could drop this guy way
down if we wanted to you you’ve seen how it works it’s it’s pretty
straightforward but it is this five five five circuit yeah I’m pretty sure I did
a video on this one this guy is five by five plus the four
oh one seven which is just a 1008 chase thing let’s sort some voltage on to that
what the hell what is that what that is grab a couple of jumpers here j1 positives that side so negatives that
side nine volt should be okay on this thing I think yeah that’s what that one
does this resistor a variable resistor is just in series like this so basically
take that out put that down to pin two and then the variable resistor does it’s
magic and changing the speed that’s ending clock pulses along makes us slow
to this guy which is just yeah I’ll link to visit to the video he did this it’s
it’s another super simple good beginner kit and if you wanted to do this if you
didn’t happen if the parts on hand and you wanted to do it any slightly less a
messy and janky way than what I did you could easily grab one of those ones
off eBay you saw the search terms back at the
beginning I might link to the search down in this description actually I
probably will yeah all kinds of fun variants on this little kit I get it’s
it could be a kid pitch you know whatever if you’ve been tinkering with
electronics for long enough you’ve probably got everything you need to make
this sitting in stock just like I did and yeah it’s a quick fun little
evenings amusement thanks for stopping by beginners especially beginners let’s
hear what you gotta say down in the comments we’ll discuss this if you got
questions or stuff that I didn’t answer feel free people with more experience
more than beginners are more than me even feel free to answer what kind of
fun weirdness have you done with 5 5 5 s hey yeah thanks for everything
umm I will talk to you later

Hello and welcome to a new episode of Gear Time at Stonehenge Studio. Today it´s about this microphone. It´s the sE Electronics RNT RNT stands for Rupert Neve Tubemicrophone This microphone were developed together with Rupert Neve Desings. We have also made a unboxing and Gear Talk video about it which i will link you somewhere here. What we will doing today. We have a male and a female singer here and will test this microphone. Because it has 9 different characteristics. We will not test all of them. Only the main characteristics and some variations of them. If you like this video please give us thumbs up and subscribe to our channel. And we are interessted what are you thinking about the RNT. Do you like it? Write us in the comments. Lets Go!

hey everybody its Adam from tested and
we have a really cool unboxing today it is in this box and oh it makes me so
excited but before I crack this show you what’s inside I’m gonna do a little bit
of history see humans have always been interested in numbers and quantifying
their surroundings it’s one of the ways in which we further understand the
universe and we have invented some very clever methods for doing it in the
beginning of course humans use things like an abacus abacus abacus abacus and
abacus this they use things like this to do some fairly sophisticated
calculations later on of course we move to things like the slide rule this very
make and model is similar to what the scientist for the Apollo program used to
get us to the moon and of course we’re all familiar with digital calculators
but this this is a special digital calculator because it was the first
mass-market produced hand-held digital calculator and what Texas
Instruments did with this was not only bring about a sea change in computation
for the masses but they also killed they killed dead what may have been the
most advanced mechanical calculator have her release to the public and that’s
where this story begins this is one of my favorite devices in all of the world
and it’s called a kurta computer invented by Kurt her stuck while
imprisoned in a concentration camp in World War two I’m serious he came up
with the idea for this calculator in the concentration camp and when the war
ended he went and built a few hundred thousand of these over several decades
this is a type one kurta computer it is a completely mechanical you set
according to this register the numbers that you want to add subtract multiply
and divide and then you turn this little crank the crank was the reason it was
affectionately known as the coffee grinder calculator and the results come
up here on top now this is a type 1 and this is a type 2 I am proud to own a
pair of these in my collection because mechanically they’re masterpieces
there’s over sick hundred pieces in this little baby and
that’s where the unboxing happens see what’s in here is a very special kurta
computer about a year and a half ago or so I became aware that there was this
guy online named Marcus woo who had endeavored to make his own kurta on a 3d
printer because the resolution of a 3d printer is fairly low he was making it
large-scale a giant oversized kurta computer I think it’s 3 X sized and I
asked if I could purchase one from him and we worked out a deal and in this box
right here is a three times normal sized 3d printed kurta computer from Marcus
well you don’t have to imagine because we’re gonna open it right now what did
he do oh my god there’s a box Marcus is clearly an obsessive and
amazing crafts person for even endeavoring to make a kurta computer but
lo he has look at this I don’t even know which way to oh I guess this is how
right okay he’s made an absolutely gorgeous
doweled wooden box with a label here that says kurta and the original logo of
the kurta computer I’m feeling a little emotional right about now okay here we
go nice brass hardware now we actually have footage of Marcus
assembling building this kurta computer for me and that will be part of this
video because it’s an insane endeavor to put one of these together there are so
many tiny little parts even at 3x scale I’m certain there are some parts of
surpassing tiny nough sand precision required without further ado let us see
what Marcus hath oh my gosh look at this oh man Marcus you are a madman look at
the finish on this thing holy I’m having trouble not using expletives I’m so
excited maybe you just blur my mouth for a
second holy ha there we go you know roughly what I
said look at this thing it is he’s replicated a three time sorry I was
just about to tell you some facts about it but then I looked at the bottom and
so on the bottom of a kurta computer this is what it says made in
Lichtenstein etc etc etc and the serial number etc here’s what Marcos has put on
the bottom of his so full disclosure Marcus came out while I was out on tour
this spring and we spent an evening going over one of the rough interim
builds of this and I saw it and it was magnificent then but it doesn’t even
hold a candle to what this is the finish is just as beautiful as it looks upon
the first glance here it’s so pretty oh my god ok so I want to run it through
some paces here let’s see first there’s right there’s that that’s the zeroing
knob the registers set just like on a normal computer that is a long helical
gear look okay so if we take let’s say 55 550 and we turn the dial once it
functions just like the real thing the number 55 comes up here Wow and then if
I want to erase that watch this ready you can take a look at all these isn’t that crazy I’m so terrified of
breaking any part of this by moving it but it’s so beautiful you know how much
I love objects this is a truly magnificent object and Marcus I applaud
and finishing techniques this is truly magnificent and I am so honored to add
it to my collection thank you you

The 8000 series of TVs from Samsung has been
a staple in the mid-range TV market for years, but how does the 2020 8000 series TV compare
to last year’s RU8000? We just bought the brand new Samsung TU8000,
so in this video we’ll go over our test results and see if it’s an upgade over last
year’s model. Hi, I’m Nick, a writer at RTINGS.com where
we help people find the best product for their needs. remember to subscribe to our channel or check
out our website to see hundreds of reviews on TVs, Soundbars, and more!. In this video, we’ll start by looking at
the design and inputs of the TU8000, and then move on to our test results for the picture
quality. We’ll also look at the motion handling,
input lag and sound. Throughout this video we’ll be comparing to
last year’s RU8000. It’s worth noting that Samsung has shifted
their lineup and this year’s TU8000 succeeds the RU8000 in name only, and is actually closer
in performance to last year’s TU7100. So we’ll do some comparisons to that model
as well. If you’d like to skip straight to our test
results, then see the links in the description below. We bought the 55 inch TU8000, but it is also
available in a wide range of sizes from 43 up to 75 inches. We expect these other sizes to have very similar
picture quality and performance, but obviously as the sizes get bigger you’ll likely need
a bigger table or a more durable wall-mount. The design of the TU8000 is almost identical
to this year’s entry-level QLED, the Q60T, and looks slightly more premium than last
year’s RU8000, though the legs don’t look quite as nice. The borders of this TV are very thin and are
quite a bit thinner than last year’s RU8000. The wide-set legs support the TV well, and
like some other Samsung TVs they attach securely without the need for screws, which is nice
and convenient. The controls on the TV are very similar to
most recent Samsung TVs and consists of a single button below the Samsung logo in the
middle of the TV. Being as all controls from Power to volume
control or source input selection are within one button, you have to rely on a different
series of short of long presses to activate different commands. Which can be a bit confusing and difficult,
so you’ll probably want to make sure to keep your remote handy. If we move around to the side, the TV is thin
and looks good. It sits close to the wall when mounted, which
is nice. All of your inputs are on the rear of the
TV, with some facing sideways, and some facing straight back, unlike last year’s RU8000
which had only sideways facing inputs, making it easier to get to them all if you wallmount
the TV. There are two HDMI ports facing sideways,
and one facing straight back, giving you a total of 3, which is one less than last year’s
model. On the sideways-facing panel you also have
your tuner input, and 2 USB ports. Facing backwards you have your earlier-mentioned
3rd HDMI port, as well as your Digital Optical Audio out, ethernet port, and unlike many
newer TVs, Samsung included composite inputs this year so you can plug in older devices,
which is nice. As far as cable management, Samsung includes
clips for the feet, similar to last year’s model. While this is very simple, it’s effective
in helping route all your cables in one place. Now we’ll move on to the picture quality. As always, check out our website for an updated
comparison with new TVs as we buy and test them. First up is contrast ratio. The contrast ratio is the relative brightness
of white versus dark areas in a scene. It is generally considered one of the most
important aspects of picture quality, as a high contrast ratio helps dark scenes to appear
more detailed without details getting lost in the gray. Unlike the slightly higher end Q60T, the TU8000
doesn’t have Samsung’s new Dual LED technology to help its contrast. That being said, the native contrast ratio
of this TV is excellent and is improved over last year’s RU8000. This helps its black uniformity perform exceptionally
well, making this TV a great choice for watching movies in a dark room. Unfortunately, the TU8000 doesn’t have local
dimming to further improve the perceived contrast of real scenes. However, this is to be expected as the RU8000
didn’t have it either, and Samsung reserves this feature for their higher-end TVs. Let’s move on to gray uniformity. Our gray uniformity test checks for issues
with the panel where different pixels are all supposed to display the exact same color,
but may not. This can result in distracting areas known
as the dirty screen effect, which is especially noticeable when watching sports or playing
video games. This is one aspect where this year’s TU8000
performs significantly worse than last year’s RU8000. The left and right edges of the screen are
noticeably darker, and there is some visible dirty screen effect at the center, which will
likely be distracting during sports or panning shots. It’s worth noting that gray uniformity is
one aspect of the panel that can vary between units, so yours might perform differently. If you come across a panel that doesn’t
correspond to our results, let us know in the comments below. Now on to viewing angles. Having good viewing angles helps keep the
image accurate when viewed from an angle, which can be important if you’re watch the
TV with a large group of people, or if your couch is positioned to the side of your TV. Like most TVs with VA type panels, the viewing
angles of the TU8000 are disappointing. At an angle the black level raises quickly
and the image looks washed out. While it performs slightly better than last
year’s model, it’s still not very good overall. If your TV is in a bright room, good reflection
handling is important to cut the amount of glare. The TU8000’s reflection handling is about
typical of most mid-range TVs. Its semi-gloss finish helps diffuse reflections
a bit across the screen though overall it’s only decent and may struggle
in moderately well-lit rooms. It’ll likely be hard to see the image in
a bright room or with direct glare from a window, especially since it’s SDR peak brightness
is only decent. SDR Peak Brightness refers to how bright your
screen can get when watching most standard non-HDR content. A brighter screen will help your TV overcome
reflections and glare, and unfortunately this screen can’t get very bright, and is quite
a bit dimmer overall than last year’s RU8000.There’s no local dimming so the brightness doesn’t
really change with most window sizes, but the TV does have CE dimming, also known as
Frame Dimming which dims the whole screen during dark scenes. Unfortunately, this can crush some details,
and it can’t be disabled. If you watch HDR content then the ability
to produce brighter regions of the image is important to produce impactful highlight detail
and help make the image ‘pop’. Unfortunately, while the TU8000 supports HDR,
it’s very dim with HDR content, and can’t produce bright specular highlights. It performs even worse than last year’s
RU8000 and at below three hundred nits, HDR content really won’t stand out. Also important for HDR is the ability to take
advantage of the more saturated colors that are possible in HDR, due to the wider mastering
color space Unfortunately, the TU8000 doesn’t have a very wide color gamut at all, and again,
performs quite a bit worse in this regard VS last year’s RU8000. Overall, this TV isn’t the best choice if
you watch a lot of HDR movies or TV shows from your favorite streaming service, or play
HDR capable games from an Xbox One X or PS4 Pro. Speaking of games, how is the motion handling
of this TV? Unlike last year’s RU8000 which had a 120
Hertz panel, all sizes of the TU8000 have a 60 hertz panel. We’ll talk about the effect of this a little
later on in this video. First up for motion is Response Time. Response time is an average of the time it
takes for the TV to transition from one color to the next. The TU8000 has a great response time, but
again it doesn’t perform as well as last year’s RU8000 and there’s a bit of blur
behind fast-moving objects, though it may not be noticeable to everyone. The backlight of the TV flickers at 600 hertz,
which is such a high frequency that it isn’t noticeable to most people and can’t be seen
in our moving logo photo. However, like this year’s Q60T, we found
that on full-screen single uniform colors it causes a kind of strange rolling effect. To help reduce motion blur, the TU8000 has
an optional black frame insertion feature. The flicker of the backlight can also be adjusted
for those who want a clearer image. This can be enabled by selecting the “LED
Clear Motion” setting in movie mode. This results in a clearer image with less
persistence blur, though it’s not as good as some other TVS as you can see some duplication
of the image, and it also darkens the screen a fair amount. Unfortunately, like with both the RU7100 and
the Q60T, the LED Clear Motion doesn’t work in game mode for low input lag. When in game mode the backlight flickers at
120Hz, and enabling LED Clear Motion doesn’t adjust this, so more duplication is noticeable
and the image is less clear. This may be fixed with a future firmware update
though. Now on to input lag. When using this TV in game mode, it reduces
the input lag of the TV, and for most signals, it’s under 10 milliseconds, which is close
to the theoretical minimum at 60 hertz. This is actually an improvement over last
year’s RU8000 and is great for fast-paced games as it feels very responsive. Unfortunately, like I mentioned before, this
year’s model only has a 60 hertz panel, so it can’t display a 120hz signal in game
mode, which is disappointing. Also, unlike last year’s RU8000, this TV
no longer supports variable refresh rates. This is a huge downgrade if you game with
an Xbox One X with VRR or from a PC, and it’s a shame that they excluded this from both
this TV as well as this years Q60T. Now for the smart features. Like all Samsung Smart TV’s, the RU8000
uses Samsung’s own Tizen OS, although the 2020 version has a slightly simpler interface
with no animations and a new ‘Dark Mode’ instead of the white background. Overall, it’s similar to previous Samsung
Smart Tvs and is easy to use. The remote is also the same as Samsung has
used for the past few years with the 8000 line and is small and straight-forward to
use. It still includes the quick launch buttons
that Samsung included on the RU8000’s remote, which allows you to quickly open Netflix,
Amazon Prime, and Samsung TV Plus. We did experience a bug with the Smart OS
during testing which caused overscan issues and is detailed on our written review linked
here or down below. It’s worth noting that we bought this TV
as soon as it was available so hopefully it’ll get worked out over the next few months. Overall, it’s easy enough to fix and we
don’t expect it to be a problem for most people. At this point you’re probably asking yourself,
but Nick, how do the speakers sound? Well if you guessed ‘about the same as most
TVs’, then you’d be right. The speakers have a decent frequency response
and can get fairly loud, but as is expected, they’re lacking in bass. For better and clearer sound it’s always
best to go with a dedicated speaker system or even a soundbar. Overall, the TU8000 is a good TV that’s
decent for most uses, though unfortunately, overall it’s a bit of a downgrade over last
year’s RU8000. It performs closer to the RU7100, especially
in regards to HDR and gaming performance. Though this seems to be becoming the norm,
as each year, the 8000 series seems to perform a bit worse than the 8000 of the year before. Keep this in mind when looking for a new TV,
as even this year’s Q60T, which is one model up over the TU8000 performs slightly worse
than last years RU8000 overall. So that’s it! What do you think of the 2020 Samsung TU8000? Is it worth the upgrade over last year’s
model or have we reached the point where we should be looking to Samsung’s QLED line
when looking for a solid mid-range TV? You can check out all of the measurements
on our website. If you like this video, subscribe to our channel,
or become an insider on the website for access to our latest results first! Also, we are currently hiring in our offices
in Montreal for various positions. So, if you want to help people find the best
product for their needs, have a look at the careers page on our website. Thank you for watching and see you next time.

– What’s the top emergency deal today? Well, to help you survive any
situation I have your savings, and they’re coming right up. (cash register clang) (upbeat music) – Whoo. Hello, I’m the YouTube
Deal Guy, Matt Granite. That was bright. I’m from MATTSDAILYDEALS.com
where I profile the biggest price drops. I highlight deals that you
will not see anywhere else, and then more importantly, I give everything I test away for free. If you do sign up for my weekly newsletter you have the chance if you like the content I do give this a thumbs up subscribe with your
notifications turned on. This emergency flashlight, which has the LED lantern built in, and then on top of that. Woooo! What’s that, a flashlight that you can use you can hang this in the event something catastrophic happens. The power goes out. Something happens to the local power grid. People are too sick to be
tending to the power lines. I don’t where your mind is going. I’m thinking about everything. I’m going to have this more handy then it’s ever been before. And then unlike a flashlight, which you can just kinda project upward, no one wants to leave a
flashlight on all night. This will actually create a light beam, in a circumference. I’m gonna show this to you up close. I’m gonna show you how this worked in a completely dark garage and then I’m gonna show you one of my favorite deals available on this product right now. Head over to MATTSDAILYDEALS.COM don’t forget to sign up
for my email newsletter and you have a chance to
win everything that I test. Now the price that I’m gonna show you for 14 dollars and 99 cents when you buy more than
one is a great deal. But many of you ask why do I profile one product over another? Some of you say in the
comments that I favor brands and at the end of the day I have brands that I love and trust
and I go back to them time and time again just like you do. But as a consumer advocate
I also want to show you what many of my decisions entail. So for example, let’s look at this Gold Armor four pack. Many of you would send
“oh Granite, you’re an idiot, the one that you feature
is 14.99 when you buy 2, why would I ever buy that
when I can get this deal, which is four for 24.99
plus an additional 20% off.” And you would see that as the
Amazon’s choice designation and perfect reviews and I would get some really mean comments about this. What you don’t realize is that I might have
already tested that product, I might have determined it’s not as well or high performing as this and then if you use the
FAKESPOT review analysis system, where you can find out if
there’s any counterfeit or deceptive advertising going on, this review brand has an F. Which means the search engine has profiled review patterns revealing a high level of deception and 187 reviews as of
the last analysis date have been altered. That is not an honestly reviewed product, where only 16.2% of reviews
are seem to be reliable. On top of that if you were, for example, take a more reliable brand like Etekcity, which also has Amazon’s
choice designation. Let’s analyze these reviews. You’re gonna see that there
is a grade review of C. And that’s for just a few
dollars more than what I found. That is why I take all of my
product testing so seriously. Now let’s put this to the test. With three double A batteries you get 72 hours of
continuous light out of this. Now this is thanks to 30
high intensity LED bulbs that comprise this omni
directional lighting lantern. Which means you get a 360 degree angle of ultra bright light. This is perfect for power outages, emergencies, great for glove compartment if your car brakes down, barbecues, later down the line, holiday gatherings, lighting the pathway to a dark yard, a basement, having this on standby in the event of an emergency. But more importantly before
we get to that point, the batteries in this device last longer based on the power management compared to many competing products. Just to show you the projection in a completely dark
garage and storage space this outperformed many of the
models I’ve used in the past. One of the other reasons I happen to really like this, the design. I love the flashlight, I love the fact that this is a two in one. I love the handles. Now I don’t want to be an alarmist. Obviously it’s been quite the week for a lot of us with
community concerns right now, but this is something you
could use to walk the dog. This is not only one of
my daughters favorite toys ever when the lights go out, but if you camp, if you hike, if you host any parties
outside frequently. I mean this is wonderful
right at these prices. I’ve got a bunch I use
them as my emergency ready, to got to tool in the basement. I have one hanging at my dad’s garage where he can just grab this and, for my grandparents I
mentioned a while ago they actually gravitate toward Florida in the winter from Montreal and they asked my to get them a light and I got them flashlight but they also mentioned
that that had seen me profile this lantern on YouTube before and were asking for something like this. It’s very lightweight. It’s easy for them to carry. You can use this to illuminate steps on your property late at night. So many benefits and none
of them have to be tied to hurricanes, tornadoes, power outages, grid failures and all of those topics that we don’t need to mention right now. Cause I’m fine, I’m not
worried, everything’s great. Alright not yet subscribed to this channel feel free to do that. If there’s another product
you want me to test please feel free to leave me a comment and more importantly
this is what you can do. Click on my head right here. It’s happy and it’s not worried. That’ll subscribe you to the channel. If you need help turning
round of deals, I did! Right over here.

When I was a little girl, I used to look up at the sky and wonder. Now I can’t see the sky anymore. I drive between the skyscrapers… curious neon giants that stretch out to infinity. My shift has just begun, and this will be a long night. My car hums between the never-ending billboards. They cast a spell… …guide me through the night. What makes this city isn’t in the streets. It isn’t on the news. It’s the people that live here… and the niggling fear that at the core of this place… is a pulsing heart…fueled by consumption. This is where I live… in the rain… among the clouds.

Hey guys, it’s Joe from American Trucks, and
today, we’re gonna be taking a closer look at the Barricade HD off-road front bumper
with LED lighting, fitting all 09 to 14 F-150s, excluding the Raptor models. Now, there’s gonna be a great option for you
if you’re looking for a relatively budget-friendly off-road-capable front bumper that throws
in some extra auxiliary lighting. So what do we have going on here with the
HD off-road? First, let’s talk about build quality. And, as you’d expect, this thing is made out
of heavy-duty steel, 5/32 inch, it’s sealed in that ultra-durable two-stage black powder
coating, which is not just there to add to the looks, albeit it does match a blackout
look almost perfectly. And our matte black grille here is pretty
much a perfect match but it also serves as a nice layer of protection over top of that
steel, against the elements. This bumper was also designed with off-roading
in mind, we’re gonna get this side by side next to the factory front bumper in just a
second to really highlight this, but suffice to say, the HD off-road bumper really tapers
up at the corners here, and that is designed to help you out with approach angle and that’s
going to improve your overall off-road experience. In order for you to go over something, you
need to get your tire up onto it, and approach angle is the first step. Now, as you could’ve probably told from the
title, this bumper also includes some auxiliary LED lighting, 2 5-watt Cree LED light cubes,
they’re 3 inches in size. They’re IP67-waterproof, which means they
can withstand up to a meter of water for 30 minutes. Aluminum housing, polycarbonate lens, and
the light output is going to come at a color temperature of around 6,000 K. That’s gonna be a very bright white leaning
very slightly toward the blue side. They’re also completely plug and play. And if your truck doesn’t come with fog lights
from the factory, Barricade even throws in a wiring harness for you to hook up to the
battery. This bumper also gives you the option to add
even more LED lighting, if that’s your thing. You can fit a 20-inch light bar in this slot
in the center here, and if you remove these two side grates, you can do up to a 30-inch
up top. You can even mount one up here, that will
take up to a 30-inch light bar. And all the brackets you need to mount those
up are included in the kit. This bumper also retains some very important
features from the factory front bumper. It does have cutouts along the bottom right
here. So, if your truck has tow hooks, they’ll be
able to mate up seamlessly with this barricade front bumper and you get to keep those as
a recovery point. That’s a really nice touch. And on top of that, the kit even includes
a front license-plate mounting bracket. If you live in a state that requires a front
plate, you’ll be good to go right out of the box with this thing. Some other options for you to trick this thing
out would include an Overrider Hoop, and that would go over a light bar if you do decide
to put one up here. There’s also a skid plate that is designed
for this bumper specifically. However, both of those things are not included
in the kit and are an optional extra. Same thing goes with the matching rear bumper,
Barricade does make one, however, again, it won’t come with this bumper obviously, an
optional extra to really tie together the look of your F-150. Pricing for the HD off-road, let’s talk about
that a little bit. And simply put, it’s gonna drop in right around
that \$800 range. And for what you’re getting here, that is
a really good return on investment. Basically, some of the most budget-friendly
bumpers we offer on the site started around 600. And for some of the big name brands that include
LED lighting like this one, you can expect to pay around \$1,500 to \$2,000. So at 800 bucks, this is a deal. There are a lot of optional extras out there
for it as well and the extra LED lighting is really a nice touch. So next, let’s get to the good stuff. How are you gonna get this thing installed
on your F-150? Well, first things first, it’s pretty easy. Again, the lights are plug-and-play, harness
is included, and that does have a switch on it. There are no modifications required to install
this onto your F-150. It is pretty heavy though. And for that, I’m gonna give it an easy two
out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. At most, this should take you about an hour
or 2 in the driveway with nothing but some basic hand tools. So, without any further ado, let me show you
what tools you’ll need and how it’s done. Tools we use for this install are going to
include an impact, extension, ratchet, socket set ranging from 21 millimeters all the way
down to 8 millimeters. A wrench set ranging from 18 millimeters all
the way down 10 millimeters. And these two Allen keys which do come included
in the kit. Now, before we go and loosen up any of the
hardware holding on our front bumper, we’re going to have to crawl under our F-150 and
unplug the fog lights. And in order to unplug those, we’re just gonna
pull back on this release tab and push down at the same time. We’re gonna do the same thing over here on
the other side as well. Now we’re gonna loosen up these 21-millimeter
nuts holding our bumper to the frame rail. Now, one thing to note, this might be blocked
with an air-dam piece. If that’s the case, you could use a trim-panel
removal tool to give that out of the way. And after that’s done, we can come in here
with the 21-millimeter socket on the impact to loosen up those nuts. That’s one done. There’s another one on the opposite side of
the frame rail as well. And then, we could come over and do the same
thing on the opposite side as well. One thing to note is these two nuts are the
last thing holding the bumper to the truck. So, once you get them removed, be careful,
have [inaudible 00:05:50] the bumper to hold it still, and then, you could take this off. So, now that we have our factory front bumper
off of our F-150, we’re gonna do a little bit of work and build up our Barricade here,
and then, we’re gonna put the two next to each other and point out some differences
between these two bumpers. Now, there’s a lot of stuff on the table,
I’m gonna tell you exactly what each one of these things is for. And then, we’re gonna go ahead and apply them
to our barricade. So, starting over here, this big plate…this
is gonna go right here in the middle of this slot. This is where a 20-inch light bar would go,
if you had one of those. It doesn’t come included in the kit, but if
you did have one, it would fall in right there. These square grates are gonna go on the side
of that. This is gonna be the spot for a 30-inch light
bar, if you had one of those, this could also go in the center slot right here. Or you could use these brackets over here
to run that up top, and then, these brackets right here, they would go in this slot in
the center. This bracket right here, this is for a front
plate, if your state does require those, you do have that bracket available for you. And then, over here are light cubes, they’re
gonna go on the outsides here. And if you didn’t wanna run those, you have
two grates to fill in those slots as well. So, we’re gonna start off with this big center
plate right here. And that is gonna drop in right in the center
and it’s going to secure with some button head screws and 10-millimeter nuts. Now, one thing about these…that I like to
do at least is I like to make sure that the button head of the bolt is behind the grille. That way, if you do ever see through that
for any reason, you won’t see the nut and the threaded portion. Just a little bit nicer to do it this way
but it’s really up to you. And to tighten those down, we’re just gonna
use the Allen key that comes in the kit, as well as a 10-millimeter wrench. And we’re gonna do the same thing for these smaller
square grates on the outside as well. Now, before we drop our fog lights in, we
are going to have to install the bracket for them. And in order to do that, we’re just gonna
slide that in between the fins like so. This does have a notch cut out of that, you
wanna make sure that that is facing forward so that you get the most amount of movement
possible out of this if you do need to adjust the fog light. Now, once we have that bracket installed,
what we’re going to do is drop a nut sort of down the bracket. And the fin has a cutout in it to hold the
nut still while we come in from the side with the bolt. And with that started, we’re just gonna use
the Allen key that comes with the lights to tighten it down. We’re gonna do the same thing over on this
side as well. And we’re gonna do the same exact thing for
the other fog light, and then, we can install this to our bumper. So now, to install this what we’re gonna do
is take that bracket we just hooked up to our light, we’re gonna feed a 13-millimeter
bolt through there. And you can see, this bracket has those two
notches cut out of it, and that’s to hold the bolt head still while we come through
into our bumper. And then, we can thread on the lock washer
and 13-millimeter nut. And again, we’re just gonna do the same thing
for the other side over here. And if you buy this bumper without these fog
to go onto our F-150. But before we do, I’d figure now would be
the perfect time to sit it down on the ground next to our old factory front bumper and point
out some key differences. Now, the first and most obvious, it’s gonna
come in the looks department. We’re ditching this factory body color here
with all of this plastic along the bottom for some real heavy-duty steel. 5/32-inch steel plate, this is going to be
a hell of a lot stronger than this factory stuff over here, especially that plastic along
the bottom. Now, this Barricade bumper wasn’t designed
with just looks in mind but also off-roading in mind as well. You can really tell, when you get to the ends
of this factory front bumper, you got that square edge to it. That is really gonna hurt your approach angle. This Barricade takes advantage of that by
tapering up on the sides, and that is just going to improve your overall off-roading
experience which is gonna be a huge plus for the HD off-road. The next upgraded area is gonna be the fog
lights. We’re ditching this factory stuff here, standard
halogen bulb with that reflector housing for some more modern LEDs. That’s really gonna clean up that color temperature,
we’re ditching the yellow for a little bit of cool white leaning very very slightly toward
the blue side. That’s gonna be a huge upgrade in the looks
department but also light throne, [SP] as this is a little bit old-school, that’s a
little bit more modern, like I said earlier. With the Barricade, you also get the ability
to add some light bars which you wouldn’t be able to on this factory front bumper. Again, you could do a 30-inch up top, a 20-inch,
or a 30-inch in that slot in the middle, if you’d like. Now, what really sets the Barricade over the
top it’s the factory features that you’re keeping. Again, you do have a front-plate mount, over
here on a Barricade, if you need it. And your tow hooks, they’re gonna work just
fine with either of these two bumpers. So, we do have a little bit of prep work to
do on our truck before we drop our Barricade bumper in place. We have to install some mounting brackets,
we’re gonna grab those and they’re gonna bolt right up to our frame rail. So, we can go ahead and grab the right mounting
bracket. You can see, this one is on the driver side
and it has that small D marked into it right there. And that is just going to install, pretty
obviously, like so. Now, once we have that in place, we’re gonna
take the 18-millimeter hardware included in the kit and bolt that down. And, on the opposite side, we’re installing
a flat washer, lock washer, and another 18-millimeter nut. And over here, on the opposite side of the
frame rail, we’re gonna do the same exact thing. Now, as you can tell, this bracket is slotted
so you get a little left and right on the bracket. And then, the frame rail is slotted for your
up and down. For right now, we’re gonna aim for the middle. But if you do need some adjustment, you could
always loosen these up later on and tighten it back down. And again, 18 millimeters on both sides. And we’re going to do the same thing over
on the other frame rail as well. So, now we can go ahead and put our bumper
up. And that is gonna rest on top of our mounting
brackets. And now that it’s resting on those brackets,
we can come underneath and we’re just gonna attach the two together with the smaller 16-millimeter
hardware. Then, we’re gonna come over here and get our
hardware started on this side. And now we have all of our hardware in place,
we’re just gonna push up, align our bumper, and then, tighten all this down, again, using
a 16-millimeter socket and wrench. And then, we’re gonna do the same thing over
on the other side. So, now we have to wrap this up by doing a
little bit of wiring in our engine bay. Like I said earlier, they are completely plug-and-play,
with this wiring harness here, however, the way that I’d personally do this is I’d hardwire
the fog lights to the factory harness. That way, they work on the factory switch. But what we’re gonna show you today is the
easiest and most reversible way to get those fog lights to work. And this is gonna be really simple. We have a couple things going on with this
harness, we have two contacts here. A relay, we’re gonna mount that up in the
engine bay. Two plug-and-play connectors. And back here, we have our switch which we’re
going to feed into the cabin of our truck. Now, first things first, we’re gonna mount
up our contacts and they are gonna go on the terminals on the battery, black to black,
red to red. We’re gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to
loosen up the nuts on there, apply the contacts, and then, tighten them back down. Now, for our relay, we’re gonna go under this
ground, right in front of the hood strut. That is going to take an 8-millimeter socket
to remove that bolt. So, now we have our plug-and-play connectors
left, we’re gonna feed those underneath of our truck in between the battery and the radiator
fan shroud. One thing to note about these, you just wanna
make sure they’re away from any hot or moving components. The spot we’re gonna put these should be pretty
good. Also, our switch, we’re gonna run this along
the firewall over to the driver’s side, and then, we’ll be able to put this into the cabin. Again, you wanna make sure the wiring is away
from any hot or moving components. Now, the best place I’ve found for the switch
is behind this rubber grommet right here. We’re gonna pull that out, feed our switch
through, and then, we could reinstall it from the other side. That switch is gonna come out in the footwell,
and it has some adhesive on the back for you to put that wherever you want. Now, one thing that is worth mentioning is
you wanna make sure that this wire is clear of all the petals. The kit does include some zip ties for your
wire manage this whole thing. Last but not least, all we’re gonna have to
do is plug in our lights. Guys, that is gonna do it for me. Some closing thoughts here. If your bumper does need some adjustment,
you can go back and loosen that up. Also your fog lights might need some adjustment
as well. You definitely don’t wanna blind the car in
front of you, these are definitely really bright so you wanna make sure they’re aimed
properly. But that’s gonna do it for me. It’s also gonna do it for the Barricade HD
off-road from bumper with LED lighting, fitting all 09 to 14 F-150s, excluding the Raptor
models. As always, thank you guys for watching. Subscribe for more like this one. Keep it right here at American Trucks for
all things F-150.