diy Archives - Cache Prof

Membuat Laptop Menjadi 2 Layar!, 5 DIY Laptop Dan PC Paling Gokil Yang Pernah Ada

October 20, 2019

Hi everyone back again with TOP LIST Modifying a laptop or PC must have its own purpose for example like a laptop that is damaged so one way is to modify it but there are also those who modify it just for their own convenience by adding a screen monitor on the laptop to 2 screen monitors some even put 3 monitors on their laptops, guys Curious how it looks? Watch the video until it’s finished These are the 5 coolest DIY PC and laptop according to TOP LIST But before entering number 5, don’t forget to click on the subscribe button and the bell too so you don’t miss notifications when there are new videos from this channel Dual screen laptop A laptop is usually only provided one screen monitor right guys if you want to add a monitor we have to buy a monitor that is usually used for a PC and connect it to the laptop But different from what is done by the owner of this youtube channel called DIY Perks the owner of this channel even added a screen monitor again on the laptop He modified this laptop in order to make it easier to type when looking at the monitor With one more screen monitor on it membuatnya menjadi lebih nyaman karena pandangan mejadi lurus sehingga tidak membuat leher menjadi pegal When his laptop is folded up with an additional monitor screen he makes it look neat even the size still fits in the bag Anybody want to try it like this, guys? Three laptop screens If you only have 2 screen monitors earlier This laptop is more mainstream guys he add 2 more screen monitors on the right and left side of the laptop so the laptop has 3 screen monitors at once But what is surprising again he paired the additional monitor screen using a hinge that is usually used on the door you know guys The hinges are glue on the right and left sides of the laptop to glue the two additional monitor screens together Although glued together using a door hinge, this connection looks strong Curious how the results? Look at the laptop immediately Desk computer If you hear the word desk computer maybe what you think is a table on which there is a PC But apparently it’s not like that guys what we mean is a computer whose monitor is inside a desk The owner of the youtube Channel named garage science made a really cool idea for his PC He made a desk that could insert his PC monitor On top of the monitor glass is also attached in order to protect the LCD monitor from pressure So that even though the monitor is inside the table, it is still protected This concept seems very suitable for those of you who design everyday as this man does DIY Mini Laptop Have you ever heard of Raspberry PI or what is also called a mini computer? This type of computer is one computer that is in great demand This type of computer is one computer that is in great demand even this mini computer can be used to watch 4k resolution videos, guys with such performance so the owner of the youtube channel called DD electrotech can make a laptop using this mini computer He made a case for his laptop and a keyboard that was equipped with a touchpad Just look at the manufacturing process right away A laptop that is made into a PC If you have a damaged laptop like damage to the monitor screen, it’s better not to be abandoned guys you can fix it by turning it into a PC, guys as shown in the video we can make a casing using wood to put the laptop motherboard You can also add additional tools such as USB and cooler This additional tool works to maximize the performance of your laptop guys so that you make your PC laptop even smaller How do you guys want to try to modify the laptop like you did in the discussion earlier? thank you for watching this video, don’t forget to like and share the video too if you feel entertained ok see u guys 😊

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Boxster 986 phares arrière LED – Tuto

October 20, 2019

Hi, this is Piston Kirk! Today we will talk about the Boxster 986 a car launch in 1996 and whose design has aged rather well except for the rear lights. Decidedly rear lights with orange turn signal, it dates a car … Fortunately, from 2003 Porsche replaced the rear lights with a withe turn signal version, which have a much more modern look. Now, you can easily replace them yourself and that is what we are about to do with a “crystal” version, equipped with LEDs. The only question is: if you have a Phase 2 that already has white turn signal, is it worth it to replace them with LEDs? Then we will compare them. As we can see, the crystal version offer quite a facelift to the car. and as their design is very close to the original rear lights, it doesn’t look like “tuning”. Most people will believe that this is the original rear lights. To begin, you have to go in the trunk and remove the two plastic clips which are screwed and holding the carpet cover. Once removed, you must remove the four bolts that hold the rear lights. After removing bolts you can remove the rear lights by pushing gently. Then, just unplug the power sockets. The central part in black plastic that is simply clipped will be inserted in the new rear lights. In the box, we also found four orange bulbs. These bulbs do not concern me because it is a Phase 2, which already had white turn signal. therefore it already has orange bulbs. However, if you have a Phase 1 with orange turn signal here, you will have to swap bulbs you can’t let the original withe bulbs. To begin, removing the protections that are only used for transport. Removing the bulb which is used for fog. Then we remove the bulb from the brake light. Then, plug the LED sockets. You have to push hard and turn simultaneously. It doesn’t fit easily. Same here, the cable length is quite low. Here again, push hard to plug it. Normally, when you put it back in place, you just have to push to clip, but sometimes the LED cables can bothers you. Be careful put the cables inside before trying to close. Push hard enough until it’s cliped We started by reconnect the sockets to verify if everything works. Once we are sure that all works, we can bolt the rear lights. Before put it back in place, the cable must be attached to the side to prevent it lying around in the trunk. This is not so easy if you have big fingers Then you can insert the rear lights. After installing the first rear light, we realized that the distance along the body was spotty here and there. To fix this problem, we put three washers there, three washers here and three washers here to have a uniform spacing along the body and to tighten enough so it doesn’t move. We have also put silicone caps at each angle which allows for a uniform spacing between the bumper and rear lights. Once the rear light is prepared, you can plug the sockets and bolt. Now, it looks well. On this picture, you can compare on the left “before” and on the right “after” the improvement of the look is obvious. The design of the rear lights is great, unfortunately, it’s a shame that only the fog and the brake lights are with LEDs. Fortunately, this problem can easily be fixed, you just have to replace filament bulbs by bulbs with the same pellet but with a LED system for the luminescent part. If you enjoyed this transformation, you know what you have to do. Go ahead!

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DIY || Touch Counter from Calculator

October 19, 2019

Hi everyone ! In this video, I am going to show you how to make a ‘Touch Counter’ by using a Calculator. These are the materials required to make this project. Take a calculator and remove the back cover. Locate the two traces on the circuit board
which connects with the ‘equals to’ (=) key. Solder two wires on to these two traces. Cover it back and hot glue the wires in the position as shown. With this, our Touch Counter is ready. Thanks for watching… Do subscribe for more such videos.

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Make your own LED Bar – Part 1 (matrix frame,bar construction,WS2812B lighting system)

October 19, 2019

One year ago I decided to build the biggest 15 by 10 RGB LED matrix. It took a lot of time. But as you can see, this 1.5 metre by 1 metre LED matrix works quite well nowadays. But having just a matrix is a bit useless. So i also built a frame around is with a nice self which lights up. And i can change the colour animation with the press of the button, and dimm the LEDs with a potentiometer. This way it became my LED bar. To serve drinks or just a put stuff on. And it looks way better than i expected in the bigining! That is why i will show you now, how i constructed the frame wall of matrix and the whole LED wall itself. Including the electronics to controll the (shatel) lights. Lets get started! (Intro music) Everithing is built around this 1.5 metre by 1 metre square of acrylic glass. And we made sure it has a milk wight colour, so that light can easily shine through and get defused at the same time. Firstly we sawed wooden panels with a width of 12 centimetres, into 4 smaller peaces, with a () jigsaw. And we use sanding paper to smooth the adges afterwards. Those 4 peaces should lay the form to square for the acrylic glass. So we use the bracket, to get a nice 90 degree angle between two panels, and uses the (wall drill) to preet wheel the 2 holes in each intersection. Than everything got secured with big wood screws afterwards. And tha main frame was done! Time for the most satisfying part! By pealing off the protector film of one side of the acrylic glass. We positiond the glass on top of the wooden frame, and it’s some basic measurements and mark where to insert 3 wood screws on each frame sides. Now here is an advice when you drill acrylic glass! Take your time! You can’t just put screws in without predrilling a hole! And we also use a bigger drill to create an invitation for that the wood screws will lighter be flashed in the glass. And the matrix frame is done. The rest of the bar is mainly build with those long planks. We strarted to saw 2 of those to a length of 1.495 metre. And also 2 smaller ones to complete the square. Which will be positioned underneath the top shelf, which is also a piece of acrylic glass, with a width of 25.5 centimetres. Again we used wood screws to build a square and also test is out how well light would shine through this glass, and it looked pretty neat. The dirt was just on the protector film by the way. Than we went ahed and cut the glass. So that it fits on the wooden frame. And the top has done. Now we used this top wooden square and built 2 more wooden squares around it. And used smaller peaces of woods to connect them together. Basicly it’s all just wooden sqares. It’s a bit hard to explain but here is the result. Which should give you a good idea of what i mean. As you can see, we also used those big wooden panels for the sides. We cut those with the jigsaw and mounted them again with wood screws. And i used white paint to give the LED bar a nice colour. Now let’s talk about the lighting system! This time i used a WS2812B LED strip which has more LED/metre as 2801 LED strip, which you know from my “Ambilight” video. It also only needs 1 pin of the microcontroller to control it. Which is neat, I chose the Attiny85 to keep everything small and cheap. Here is the schematic. We’ve got 1 push button of pull down resistor to select the mode, and one 10kOhm potentiometer to set the brightness. The potentiometer, LED strip and 5V power will be connected to the PCB with those terminals. The building of the whole PCB only took me 15 minutes. And i even made the board layout diagram for you guys! So it should be really easy build. As always you can download the schematic, code and find the part list on my instructable site. Link is in description. And dont forget to program the Attiny85 with your programming shield which i showed you in another video! And you also need the “FastLED.h” library. Sooo download it! Now it is time to mount the LED strip, underneath the acrylic glass. And if you think: Why is the glass suddenly glued to the frame? Well it was the first try and i removed it later. But more about of it in the second part. The first test with the strip was successful. So we decided to fuse the matrix with the bar, by pushing it slowly and carefully inside our wooden frame. But it didn’t look so greet. So we pulled off the protector film on the side, and built kind of like big (show) frame around it. Again we used small wooden (planks), which are already painted white. And i think it looks way better than before. Because you cannot see the transition between the matrix and the bar anymore. And it also hides the big screws and the acrylic glass. Now it’s time to score the PCB and break off the unnecessary part. Than i soldered 3 wires to the LED strip, which later connect to the main PCB. Afterwards i got myself a 5V, 3A power supply, which will be enough choose to power the strip. I cut off the old plug and removed the isolation of the positive power wire. And i was just double checked the polarity of the wires with my multimeter. Here you can see, how i hotglued the PCB to one of the wooden walls. Which was a good idea. Because it is not too noticeable there. But not a good idea was to glue the potenciometer and the power switch to this wooden side as well. Because there was just 2 bid. I will need to reposicion them and the second part. Moving on to the top acrylic glass part, which are already removed once. I’ve just used one small line of Acrylic on the trame to glue the glass to it. But silicon would have also worked fine. Than with a steady hand and a bit of precision we allowed the glass onto the frame and pressed it in place. Now the lighting effect does look way better than before! Because i didn’t used so much acrylic whitch is squashed out of the side like last time. Would that mean said, let’s and the first part here! And find out how i completed this built in the next video. As always, thanks for watching! Don’t forget to like, share and subscribe! For more electronics projects, stay creative and i will see you next time!

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TUTORIAL: DIY LED Tube Lights

October 19, 2019

Hey everyone, Adam with Droi Media here, and
today we’re going to be making one of these awesome LED tube lights. LED tube lights are
all the rage right now and today we’re going to be making our very own just like this one.
Now these come out to about $25 per foot if you follow the instructions I’ve made. The
nice thing is though you can use whatever materials fit your budget, and you can make
them in whatever length you want – here I’ve got an 18” one. I just made a bunch of these
because they fit into my light kit a little easier than the 3’ ones I initially made.
Without any further ado let’s go ahead and jump right into this build. First let’s talk about the materials you’re
going to need…. I bought two of these 1 ½” frosted acrylic round tubes from Canal
Plastics, then you’ll need a thin wooden dowel rod, I believe I used a ½ “ one that
I picked up from my local hardware store. You’ll want a 12 volt DC adapter, two end
caps per tube, and then you’ll need your LED strip light. I recommend these 5m strips
from LightingWill which are about $30 per strip – these have a 90 CRI so the light is
a fairly good quality. These strips also come with a solderless connector so it’s going
to be way easier for us to build the lights. I went with a daylight balanced one here to
match my other lights – you can get whatever you want though including RGBs or Tungsten
or whatever. I found that a 5m strip will give you just enough to fill a 3’ tube.
My strips have two bare wires on the end for us to connect to our power supply. You’ll
also want some extra wire, and then you’ll need a few tools like a screwdriver, wire
cutters, a hot glue gun and a soldering iron. All of this stuff will be linked below.
I actually cut my tubes down to make 18” lights so they would fit in my pelican cases,
but you can literally make whatever length you’d like – if you do decide to cut them
just use a hacksaw and then sand or file the ends down so they’re smooth.
Cut down your dowel to the length of your tube and then we want to drill two small pilot
holes in both ends. Take your extra cord and cut a length several
inches longer than your dowel rod, and tape one end to your dowel with a few extra inches
of excess wire hanging out – I just used some masking tape I had nearby. Make sure the wire
is flat against the dowel, it’s tight, and then go ahead and tape the other end down
too. Grab your LED strip, take the adhesive off
the back, and leaving about ½“ of the dowel exposed we want to stick it to the rod, and
make sure this is done at an angle. Peeling the adhesive off as you go wind it all the
way down the rod. We want the LED strips touching but not overlapping. When you get to the other
end be sure to leave another ½“ or so of the dowel out, and then if you need to cut
your light strip be sure to cut along one of the pre-determined areas – mine have a
small cut icon and a couple copper areas where I can cut them. We need these to solder the
wires to, so just cut them carefully with a wire cutter.
Then strip the ends of your extra wire on the end we just cut, and we want to solder
the black to the negative, and the red to the positive. These should be labeled somewhere
on your LED strip. IF you’ve never soldered before I recommend you practice on a few chunks
of excess wire before doing it here, or watch one of thousands of YouTube videos before
doing it. Honestly, it’s super easy, just be careful and go slow. And just so you know,
this is the hardest part of the project, after this it’s smooth sailing.
After those are soldered let’s go back to the other end. Strip the excess wire here,
and then if you need to cut and strip the wires coming from your LED strip. You’ll
want just under 2 inches of wire for each of these. Make sure your solderless power
adapter is nearby, and then twist the two bare black or negative wires together, and
then slip those into the negative side of that power adapter and screw them down. Simply
repeat this step with the two bare red or positive wires. You should now have a dowel
covered in LED lights with one end soldered and the other end ready to get plugged in.
At this point in time it probably looks bare and ugly but we’re going to add the frosted
tubes in just a moment and make everything look real sexy. Before you go any further
make sure your connections are solid by plugging it in.
For this last bit grab a couple tiny screws, I just used a handful of small ones I had
laying around, get your end caps, your acrylic tube, and that uggo LED stick we just made.
In the end caps you’ll want to drill two very small holes directly in the center, and
then drill a larger hole on the outer edge of ONE of the caps. I believe I used a ¼”
bit for this one. Slide your LED stick into the acrylic tube, and then start one of the
screws through the end cap without the larger hole in it. Finish screwing it into the far
end of the LED stick, and then slide that onto your tube – it should fit nice and snug.
Then disconnect the solderless adapter at the other end, and using some hot glue, or
sturdy adhesive of your choice, connect it to the other end cap with the power adapter
on the outside and the wire connections on the inside. This one that you see here was
the first one I made, and it is ugly as [bleep]. If you make more than one they’ll come out
prettier each time. Reconnect your wires like we did earlier, and snap that end onto the
tube to seal everything up. Now plug that super sexy super kickass LED light tube in
and bask in all of its wonderful glory. These lights are super easy to use, just grab
a clamp and put them to work in your next project! Be sure to subscribe for our next
video because I’m going to show you how to make a bank like this where you can attach
different lights to it, this is going to have an adapter on the back so it can attach directly
to a light stand, and then it’s also going to have a little dimmer here as well. Also,
I’m going to be joined by my very adorable very needy production assistant. So if you’ve
got any questions about this build please leave those down in the comments section below,
if you’ve got any questions about this video or this project leave those down in the comments
section below. Thanks so much for taking the time to watch this video, and I will see you
guys next time.

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How to make LED Water Lamp – Very Simple

October 19, 2019

Hello Friends In this video tutorial, you will learn how to make a Night Water lamp using very few materials The Items required to make the water lamp are A waste plastic or glass bottle Any bottle can be used if it can stand still even when placed inverted A multicolor LED A coin cell battery Hot glue gun and a cup of clean water To start Take a plastic bottle Unscrew the cap and drill two holes in it to fit LED legs Here, I have used a Hand PCB Drill Do not worry if you dont have one You can also use a hot needle to make holes but be very careful with this step Insert the LED in the cap from inside Apply some hot glue around it Make sure to seal it well Let the glue dry for sometime Now, fold the +ve leg of LED at an angle of 90 degrees Also, bend the -ve leg in opposite direction and fold it twice or may be thrice to make it thick Apply hot glue over the cap such that the +ve leg is immersed inside the glue Whereas the negative leg is slightly above it Now, place the coin cell over the glue so that the -ve leg of LED is in contact with the cell Keep it to dry for sometime Make sure that the cap settles well when placed inverted Fold the +ve leg such that such that when the bottle is placed inverted, the LED turns ON Our Night Lamp is almost ready Now, fill the bottle completely with water and close the cap tightly When we now place the bottle inverted the LED turns ON and the water helps in scattering the light inside the bottle You can also add some glitter to get a sparkling effect in water So friends, this here concludes the tutorial make one yourself and have fun Don’t forget to subscribe and do come back soon for new updates Thanks for watching

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Smart DIY Charging Station with LED Notifications | How to Build

October 19, 2019

Welcome back to Fix This Build That I’m Brad and today when we making a smart charging station with LED status notifications I’ve been collecting a small stack of walnut boards that were too nasty or just not the right fit for a project I’ve also got three kids who leave their tablets charging in random outlets wherever they can find them and Tablets charging on the floor or the couch can lead to this So for this project I decided to solve two issues in one build and try some new materials and skills that really challenged me Spoiler when I say challenged. I mean I failed I Pulled the walnut boards off the rack and I sorted through the pile looking for the pieces that could work Now all the walnut that I had was rough and it needed a lot of milling to get it into a usable shape I used my planer to get the board’s flat on both sides and I started revealing that grain underneath These boards came from several different purchases that I’ve made over the years so the color and the matching consistency wasn’t all that great But I was able to put together three different panels of boards that fit pretty well together And with a little work I could make them look decent enough and get a really unique looking piece With some lights Applewood accents on it The three panels will be connected together with a miter joint So I needed to make them the same width And getting a square edge on the jointer and then ripping each board to size Left me ready for the glue ups for all three of these panels now the biggest thing with panel glue ups is to make sure that you have them in the orientation you want before you start your Glue up earlier I mark the ends of these boards with the light SAP wood streaks in them for this exact reason Because it’s never fun to realize after the glue up that you didn’t match up the boards the way you really wanted to it’s kind of like getting dressed for work in the dark so that you don’t wake up your better half and then when you get To work you find out you’ve got one navy blue sock on and one black sock on But on second thought mismatched socks at work is probably way better than an angry wife at 7:00 a.m So pay attention to your glue ups, but blindly grab your socks in the morning and sneak out of the room like a ninja Now the glued up panels were just wider than my planer so I went to the drum sander to flatten them out before moving on to the I designed a graphics layout for the top of the charging station and I imported it into the easel software that runs my Inventables x-carve I’ll be using the CNC to route the charging locations and some initials for my kids So that each of them will have their own designated spot and their own USB cord for the charging station I’m using the sign-making router bit set from Freud the sponsor of today’s video for the carving I started off with the quarter inch carbide spiral bit to cut the landing spot grooves now These grooves will be cut all the way through the walnut and I’m gonna fill them with epoxy and then backlight them with LEDs The spiral bit makes nice clean cuts that removes a lot of material at a time The bit set is great for making all types of signs with different features and cut types It has eight different bits including V groove down spiral up spiral tapered ball tip and up cut spiral ball nose bits You can do a variety of detailed relief carvings for pictures or logo works with these bits as well as crisp lettering now I’ll have a link below in the description of the set and you can check out all the details about them and thanks to Freud for sponsoring this video After the spiral bit passes were finished. I changed a bit over to the sixty degree V bit and I rewrote the x-carve It’s really mesmerizing to watch the CNC do its thing with a good bit And this is the perfect application to use CNC as doing this cleanly by hand would be nearly impossible for me I’m gonna have LEDs running under the grooves in the top and I wanted to fill them with epoxy to diffuse the light And but instead of embedding the LEDs in the epoxy I want to make sure I could keep the electronics accessible So I only filled half of the groove with epoxy and I left room for the LEDs to be placed down in there. I taped off the front of the grooves and then I flipped the top over and I leveled it out for an even pour Then I mixed up three cups of high performance epoxy with a slow hardener White pigment added to the mix is going to give the epoxy a nice look while it isn’t backlit and then diffuse all that light Really nicely when the LEDs are going around Now each cup had just enough in it to fill one channel to the halfway point So I poured them all in and I let the epoxy cure for about six hours After that, I flipped the top over and I uncovered the initials and the initials won’t be backlit But I wanted to put some fun colors in there with them for the kids I mixed up some more epoxy this time using a fast hardener and I added orange blue and purple pigments to the mix. I Overfilled each letter and then I let everything cure overnight so I could come back the next day and work on it When I got back I peeled off the tape and I realized I probably should have used something more like a Tyvek tape or packing Tape versus this painters tape. I think it would have come off a lot cleaner The painters tape left this little sticky residue But I went ahead and hit the epoxy with a card scraper to remove that before sanding So I wouldn’t gunk up the sandpaper and while I was editing. I went ahead and knocked down the epoxy letters a bit, too Just to keep a little wear off of the sandpaper as well But I probably didn’t need to do that because my drum sander ate through the epoxy like my kids polished off that last Oreo before I can jump in there and get it They always get me on that Now the shape of the charging station is pretty basic and I wanted to give it a few embellishments I tilted my table saw to 20 degrees and I cut a chamfer on the front face of all the panels This is gonna give me a cool inset look when I put the front face on I Moved the blade over to 45 degrees and I pulled out my old table saw sled that I’ve dedicated to cutting miters I started by cutting the minors on the side panels the measurements here weren’t important since I was gonna be cutting them to length afterwards And leaving the top panel oversized when I was doing the CNC work Let me Center the design now with the cuts made on the sled Now one big advantage of using a sled for cutting minors is you can cut to your layout lines really easily here Instead of trying to figure out where the Tilted blade is gonna hit on the top panel You can just align your layout line on the top of the panel with the curve cut on the back fence of the sled But somebody in the shop wasn’t too happy despite his smile a friend The sled has seen just about enough of this old dude getting all to work So I went ahead and let him come in and finish off the 90 degree cuts on the side panels. I Finished off the table saw work by cutting a front and a back for the charging station before moving into assembly which definitely turned out to be the hardest part and If you’re a walnut loving woodworker like me Make sure you get subscribed and don’t miss out on more of this Chocolaty goodness in my projects and if you don’t love walnut, let me know in the comments why you’re wrong I’ve done this full miter glue up in some previous projects like my epoxy waterfall table in the modern in table videos But this one was a little bit different because I had three pieces versus the two or the four like I had in the others I Started off by using some clear packing tape across the miters to hold that miter tight when I was doing the glue up But it just wasn’t really working out. Well, I’m not sure what was going on here But the tape was just not holding nicely like it did the last time I used it So I went ahead and switched over to the blue painters tape, which held up way better But you just couldn’t see through it to see that corner I Used the dog holes in my workbench to hold down to writing or clamping squares to the top and then I hinged the sign up And I used more clamps to hold the side to those clamping squares This technique works out pretty well but you may have to adjust the clamping squares forward or backward a little bit to get them lined up just right and Definitely check the angle with your best ninety degree square before leaving it to dry Because these clamping squares do tend to flex a little bit After the first side had dried for about thirty minutes. I repeated the process on the other side I’m using a quick set thick glue that works really well for minors I’m gonna have a link to it and all the other items that I use for the build down below in the description When the glue is dry, I took the table out of the clamps and I did some relief chiseling under the monograms this is gonna let the leds sit flush in the groove and it makes it a little place for the wires to go and not be interfered with I’m gonna have a removable bottom for the charging station so I can easily access everything if needed and I cut a rabbet groove on the front and the Back parts to fit a quarter inch plywood panel The front got attached with pocket screws on the sides in the top and I inset the front so that it was flush with that recess chamfer edge that I cut over on the table saw and this is going to give that cool detail and you really look at the piece Before moving on to the electronics. I applied a two-part oil finish I sanded up to 150 grit and then I rubbed in the finish with a white scotch brite pad on the sides and I used a squeegee on the top to Get it distributed and then rubbed it in with the pad as well The epoxy really popped with a finish and even if you don’t want to get fancy and add the LEDs This could be a great looking charging station as is right now But of course I wanted to go to the next level and here’s where I got a little bit out of my league. I Saw a video several years ago by youtuber called make JA sure. I’m gonna link below to his video Made a light bulb turn on or off when his phone was done charging I wanted to do the same type thing except use the LEDs and have some animation with it My issue was I had no idea what I was doing because I’ve never done Arduino coding and this is gonna be the first time working with electronics in this nature So I’m gonna go super-high level here, so don’t freak out If you’re not into electronics the idea here though was to use this little microcontroller It’s called the Arduino Uno and put some code on it so I could control the set of LEDs So I glued the LEDs in place in the epoxy channels, and then I started wiring I used a six port USB block to power everything next I wired in these little current and voltage sensors these were the things that I saw make Joshua use in his project and it really makes the whole thing work and This is gonna let the Arduino read the current flowing through the cable So basically, it’s just gonna know if the tablet is actively charging or not Now my original plan was to just use one of these arduino uno z’ I figured out how to measure all the currents at once but I couldn’t figure out was how to control the multiple LEDs all at the Same time Because it’s basically a looping program. And so it had to kind of pause before it gave the instructions to each one So an easier way to do it is I dedicated a single Arduino to each of the tablet charging areas Now this is obviously a more expensive way to do it and a smarter person than me can probably figure that out. I Wired everything in place and I secured the board’s down with some screws and standoffs that I cut from little plastic straws Then I installed the back which is going to be a half inch shorter than the front this left a little space at the top of the back so I could run the cables out to the top as well as it’s Gonna let out any heat that comes from the charging cables as well as the LEDs. I Stuck the power block to the back with Velcro and I ran the charging cables out I also did a couple cable clips on the cord so that they won’t pull out the wiring if they get yanked on Let me rephrase that when they get yanked on by my kids Programming these LEDs was a whole other adventure I am NOT gonna go into the details because honestly, I just did not figure it out I tried to edit the code from make Joshua and make it work for my situation I did get the LEDs to be off while it was not plugged in Pulse when it was plugged in and glow a solid green when it was fully charged sometimes Other times it would just go blank after charging or it would blink wildly when a tablet was not plugged in so I definitely failed figuring out the coding on my own but I’m just gonna consider this a Prototype as far as the coding goes and as soon as I could figure out how to make that work and get some help from somebody smarter than me then all I have to do is update the new code and we’ll be in business and Most importantly my kids think it’s really cool that they have their own LED charging station for each of their tablets Hey, if you wanna check out some more projects, I got a playlist queued up for you right there I think you’re gonna love it until next time guys get out there and build something awesome

Articles, Blog

Adafruit LED Sequins

October 18, 2019

Stitch some sparkle into your next wearable
project with Adafruit LED sequins– these tiny lights are easy to sew with conductive
thread. They come in a pack of five with these breakaway
tabs. Each small circuit board has a single color
LED and an appropriate resistor for powering with three to six volts.
When you connect LED sequins to FLORA or GEMMA, you can make them blink and fade using the
digital and analog outputs and simple instructions in the Arduino programming environment.
Each one draws about five milliamps, so you can connect up to five in parallel to a single
microcontroller pin. Unlike our FLORA NeoPixels, however, they are not individually addressable.
Follow our guide to the LED sequins on the Adafruit Learning System. Let me know what
you’re making in the comments below and subscribe for more wearable electronics from Adafruit.

Articles, Blog

How to Install LED Boat Lights on your Boat Hull – PowerBoat TV

October 17, 2019

Here’s this week’s My Boat feature. One
of the more popular options being installed these days on cruisers and
larger day boats of course is underwater lights. So this week on My Boat we’re
gonna take you through the steps of installing underwater lights on this
Silverton and we’re going to be working with one of the latest models from Lumitec. On the Silverton I planned on installing three of the sea blaze
spectrums based on usable transom space. The first step was to measure and Mark
the tentative positions for each of the lights at least eight inches below the
waterline. Next I measured the locations positions from reference points that
could be located inside the hull to confirm clearance. These measurements
from the reference bolts were quickly checked in the bilge to ensure the
required holes would clear stringers and vital items mounted on the transom. Back off the boat final measurements to laterally locate the lights were made and
marked. Finally the supplied drilling templates were taped into position. (Drilling sound) When
drilling the mounting screw holes extra care must be taken to size them
correctly for the soft bronze screws. Once the correct size is identified all
of the mounting holes can be drilled as well as the pilot holes for the wiring.
The last holes to be drilled are the half-inch centre holes for the
wiring. After removing the template, a marine sealant rated for below the
waterline applications is applied to the mounting holes in the wiring hole. A
generous amount of sealant is applied to the back surface of the light as well.
Finally the wiring is fed in through the transom and the light is pressed into
place. As the mounting screws are tightened down sealant must squeeze out
evenly around the light to ensure a watertight bond. The same process is
repeated for each of the lights. Inside the bilge first slide the rubber strain
relief on the wire and apply marine sealant to the tips of the screws and
the wiring hall and press the strain relief into place.
Task one was to mount the terminal block or bus bar in a central dry
location where all three lights could be wired into it. Next the positive and
negative wires from each light were stripped, ring terminals crimped on and
shrink tubing heated. Once everything was prepped the negative and positive wires
from each light were secured to the bus bar. Then the power supply was prepped
with the ring terminals and shrink tubing as well. Once complete the
positive and negative wires were secured to the bus. Before leaving the bilge the
wiring was cleaned up and secured with zip ties. Now we did spend a few hours
with camera off doing the tough job of running our power wires. These go down to the light to turn them on, along with the ground but also go through the boat here
to the back of the electrical panel so that’s what we’re gonna work on now. I first marked out and cut a hole to
accept a plastic electrical box to hold the required basic switch. The positive
leads from the panel and the bus bar were stripped ring terminals crimped on
and the standard light switch was secured and all of the switch plates
were installed. The ends of the positive and negative wires were stripped for
ring terminals. I also had to make up a jumper wire to run from the fuse block
to the spare breaker. Next the positive wire to the switch in the jumper wire
were connected to the fuse block and the correct fuse was inserted. This block for
multi-fused circuits was selected so the owner could add more LED lights in the
future. But the positive was connected to the breaker and eventually the negative
was secured to the negative bus bar. With the wiring tidied up the panel is back
in place and we would have to wait for launch to see the results of our work.
All in all this was a pretty straightforward My Boat project. We
invested a day in it to do the installation fortunately this was a
reasonably easy boat to work on. Now the fruit of our labor we’re seeing the lights and how spectacular they really are.

Articles, Blog

Making a Honeycomb LED Panel

October 17, 2019

hey folks on today’s video we gonna make
hexagon LED light or honeycomb shape LED light first thing is you will need LED strip.
I have two model of this LED strip. One is cold white, and the other one is warm white. So, I don’t want to make it cold white light and I want to make uh… natural white color.
so the color more natural it makes my eyes comfortable and doesn’t too bright on my eyes. first step is you should draw hexagon shape, and make sure it’s very precise because if
you not draw it precise you will get a problem you will need sixty pieces of popsicle stick,
or you can use cardboard instead of popsicle stick and then start making
hexagon shape with popsicle stick or you can use cardboard instead and secure it
with hot glue or you can use superglue instead but, it cannot last longer than hot
glue so I recommend you to use hot glue instead. when you are making hexagons
make sure it’s very precise if you are not making it precise, you will get a
problem like you will get harder when you are putting all together and make
sure all of your hexagons have 75% of preciseness or it will harder to put all
everything together and for the backside I’m using gift wrapper because it’s cheap
and so easy to cut and I’m using hot glue again to hold everything in place one hexagon left, and this gift wrapper
doesn’t fit. this is why I bought two gift wrapper remember you will need a 10 meters of LED strip, because 5 meters will not enough you can choose color whatever you want and now the hardest part not hardest but it’s very hard to remove the
secure tape on the backside of the LED and place it to the hexagon it might takes
at least 5 hours for me it’s so long now for the wiring I’m just wiring it in
Parallel it not very hard but,you will need some wires for wiring all together alright I just finished wiring all of these LEDs, and for a diffuser I’m using wax paper I will use two layers of this wax paper
and I think I will get tired of this thing, because it’s so many to hold everything all together I’m
using popsicle stick on the backside I add more additional strength by adding
more hot glue on the gap of each hexagons and then drill on the side for connecting all panels together, and make a hole for the main wire for powering all LED together all right after I finished soldering all
panels together let’s give it a test Wow it’s so bright it’s time for wrapping all together with
wax paper for making diffuser for the LED so I will use two layers of wax paper and finally I’m using double sided tape
to hold the wax paper and start wrapping everything together so here is the final product, let me just
turn it on maybe you think this is not bright
enough because I’m using cheap LED strip this is a 3528 type of LED
strip if you want to more bright than this LED, you can use 5050 type of LED
strip so basically this is just a 12 volt LED and you still need switching power supply, for powering this LED. I think 3 Amps is enough, because
when I test it using multimeter it draw current at ~2A at 12 volt DC I think you will need 5 Amps power supply because, I think 3 Amps it’s not enough anyway if you liked this video don’t
forget to hit like button and share it with your friend. consider subscribing for more DIY project like this or Arduino project and anything And leave a comment if you want Ahhhhhhh~~~ you see you guys in the next video

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