All right, so I have a PS4 controller here
that we’re going to take apart apart today. It’s also called a Dual Shock 4. So there’s
four screws around the back, just your normal Phillips head screws. So I’m going to take
apart each one of those. They’re all the same size so I’m just going to set them aside.
And then I found that if you kind of pinch each of the little handles it kind of will
separate the back from the front of the controller and you can kind of wedge your little pry
tool in between. There’s a series of latches around the outside that are stuck really tightly
holding the top to the bottom of the controller. So if you find each little clasp and clip
it it’ll pop out and you can see that the back of the controller right here is coming
loose from the buttons. If you watch the very end of the video how I put it back together
it’ll make a lot more sense how it comes apart. You see the button came loose right there.
I can just click it back into place so it’s pretty simple. Right here you can see the
battery as well as the white ribbon cable which goes to the charging port. So I’m just
going to pull that away from the little connector on the motherboard. And now I’m going to show
you how to replace the charging port. If you don’t need this step and just want to go to
the battery replacement you can skip ahead to about 2:30. Two screws right here that
you’re going to undo, they’re just your normal Phillips head. And then you can start moving
the little pieces of plastic, and this is all for the light that is on the controller
for how it communicates with the camera and the PlayStation. Get all the little plastic
out of the way and there’s two little Phillips head screw heads down at the bottom that I’m
going to undo. And then the charging port itself just comes loose from the controller.
Usually these parts aren’t very expensive at all so if yours breaks, and you need the
part, and I haven’t listed it in the video description below yet, just shoot me a comment
and I’ll find one for you. Getting it all put back together again, putting those two
Phillips head screws back into place, tightening them in. The glass has its own little pins
that it kind of sits on top of. So everything goes back in its own little groove. The controller
was made pretty sturdily. And then you have the top two Phillips head screws as well.
So here’s the battery. The interesting thing about the battery, it’s 3.65 volts and 1,000
milliamp hours, it’s lithium ion. I think that this battery feels really light, and
that you can get another battery that would be about the same size with double the milliamp
hours in it. So I think it’s switchable. Anyway, so here’s the two vibrators in the handles
of the controllers. One is bigger than the other. I thought that was interesting as well.
To kind of give you dual vibrations. Then to take out the main board inside the controller
you have the one screw that holds it into place. And as you’re separating the main board
from the top half of the controller there’s a few little buttons that might fall out.
There’s not very many. It’s mostly just the share button at the top, along with the other
button. You can see that mine came loose. All you have to do is just grab your little
button and pop it back into place. It’s not too big of a deal. And so all these buttons,
they are swappable as well so you can just pop those out and pop new ones in. Then here’s
the main board. Nothing on this is really swappable. All the vibrators and everything
else is soldered on to the main board so there’s nothing really that you can change out on
this section of the controller. Then this is the little touch pad up at the top. And
it comes loose and you can see the little white ribbon cable that goes into the main
board. Just clip that back into place. And then back to the main board again, so this
is the little speaker right here in the main section. So if your speaker goes out you can
swap that out. And you can see on the main board these little connectors right here is
how it gets its communication. It just rests against those little gold connectors and it
tells it what to play. Kind of fun. Anyway, get that positioned back into place again,
back on the main board. And then set it directly on top of the plastic. I keep it face down
just so I don’t have to deal with all the buttons coming loose and falling out. And
then make sure everything finds its correct groove, get that little ribbon cable back
into place that you took out before. Just press it in. There’s a little latch that you
have to clip down. And then get the back plastic with the little battery compartment. And I
think if you do find a different sized battery, one that will last longer, you can modify
that compartment just a little bit, you know shave away a little bit of the plastic. It
looks like there’s room around the battery as well. Anyway here’s the charging port ribbon.
You can kind of see me getting that into place, just be sure to do it super gently, not to
bend the cable at all, not to scrape off the little gold connectors on it. Just push it
straight in. Then it holds itself. There’s no latches or anything on this connector.
And then this little guy fell out. This is for the reset button on the controller. It’s
just like a little rubber thing that just goes in it. So if that popped out, just kind
of slip it down in the groove in the plastic where it goes. Took me a second to figure
out where that one came from. Anyways, so you see this is how the back goes on, it just
latches on between the left and the right triggers. And then once the back is clasped
on, the rest of it just kind of falls into place. So you can kind of see it just snapping
in. And you can here all the little latches clicking shut as you close it. Anyways if
you any questions make sure to leave them in the comments below, don’t forget to like
if this video helped you and don’t forget to subscribe. I put up videos fairly often,
you can see my full PlayStation 4 tear down as well and a few of my other videos. Anyways
thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe. Hope to see you around.