These guys are talented killers. Close the island. This was a set up. Oh my god. Cops or criminals? If you have blood on your hands, I will find you. 21 BRIDGES. IN THEATERS THIS FRIDAY. RATED R.
These guys are talented killers. Close the island. This was a set up. Oh my god. Cops or criminals? If you have blood on your hands, I will find you. 21 BRIDGES. IN THEATERS THIS FRIDAY. RATED R.
Today I’m going to show you how you can
charge your cell phone, your smart phone or any other USB powered device using your laptop
without the laptop being on. Why would you want to do this?
Well, when you charge your device, that uses up a lot of energy from the laptop but you
don’t want to have your laptop on at the same time because then your, unless your using
the laptop of course but if your not using the laptop, then there’s no reason to have
it on and waste double the energy. A lot of the newer laptops have what’s called
a power sharing port. Ah if you look at your USB symbol and there’s
a little lightening bolt, then that means that your laptop should have a power sharing
port. Most laptops only have one port that is enabled
for power sharing. To find out if you have it setup, plug in
your device, with your laptop off obviously. Ah, for my laptop here it’s this port.
There we go. And I’m getting anything at the moment.
So, that doesn’t mean that it’s not there, it just means that it may not be enabled in
the bios. In order to set it up in your bios, go ahead
and turn on your laptop and your gonna press F2 when it comes up to your main screen.
Now here you are at your Bios configuration. Now in each laptop is going to be a little
bit different. This is a Samsung but here, if you go over
to your advance tab, and now look here you have your USB charge in sleep mode.
Now each one is gonna have it described a little bit differently but it’s gonna be
something to do with USB sharing, USB charge in sleep, something in that neighborhood.
So your going to go down, hit enter and enable. Enter.
And what’s that’s gonna do is enable that port.
Go ahead and go to exit. Save changes and restart.
And I will get back to you in a second. Okay, now I have turned off the computer after
we enabled the power sharing in the bios. So lets go ahead and plug it back in.
And now as you can see, my cell phone is now charge and like I say, my laptop is out which
means I’m only using the electricity energy just to charge the phone.
In my experiences, you can usually charge your phone your phone using your laptop battery
and this is great in instances where your out and about and you don’t have access
to a wall outlet to plug your phone in and even your battery is not fly charged, you’ve
all ready used your laptop, you can still use it and get some extra juice in your cell
Hello friends. Welcome to the new video by Practical Ninjas. In this video, we will be learning about the
basic concepts of electricity. The video will discuss the charge, voltage,
current, power and energy. Let us start from the basics that we have
studied in schools. We know that any atom is made up of neutrons,
protons and electrons. Protons are positively charged and electrons
are negatively charged. Electricity is nothing but the movement of
these electrons. These electrons are charged particles and
basically this charge is used to harness energy which is nothing but electricity. Voltage is generated or said to be present
between two points when there is difference in charges between these two points. Consider the battery shown in the figure. We know that there exists a potential difference
between the two terminals of the battery. It is due to the fact that there is difference
in charges between these two points. Voltage can also be defined as the amount
of potential difference present between two points. The unit of voltage is ‘Volts’. Mathematically, we can describe voltage as
the ratio of energy to charge. To understand the concept of voltage, let’s
study the classical analogy of water tank. As seen in the figure, we can see a water
tank with an outlet water pipe. The amount of water can be considered as charge. Voltage refers to the pressure difference
in water at the top of tank and at the exit of the pipe. From this we can infer that more the water
in the tank, more would be the pressure difference. Similarly we can say that more the difference
in charges, more is the potential difference or the voltage. The next term is the current. Current is defined as the rate at which charge
flows. Current is also said to be the flow of charge. The unit of current is ‘Amperes’. Mathematically it is written as q/t. From the equation, we can infer that more
the charge, more current would flow for the same fixed time. Looking at the water tank analogy, current
can be said as the flowrate of water. If the pressure difference between the water
at two different levels is more, water will have higher flowrate. This means that if the voltage difference
between the two points is high, current flowing between these two points will also be high. Next concept is power. Power is defined as the rate at which work
is done in an electric circuit. Mathematically, Power=Energy/Time. Rearranging the terms, we get the equation
for power as V*I. The unit of power is ‘Watts’. In the next few videos, we will try to understand
the relationship between the voltage and current in an electric circuit.
In this video, I will show you how I created this rather interesting looking, metal construction which is in fact a persistence of vision RGB LED Globe. That means we’ve got 38 addressable RGB LEDs in total, which rotate rapidly in a spherical shape in order to create an optical illusion which manifests itself as a complete spherical picture. This way you can create an intriguing looking eye catcher by utilizing different shapes and colors, or even write letters with it. So, let’s not waste any more time and let’s get started with the build. The plan for the mechanical construction is rather simple. For starters, we need a DC motor which rotates with a suitable speed. I went with this 12 volt, 7 watt, 3000 rpm one which, according to simple math, should rotate up to 50 times per second. Which is definitely fast enough for our illusion. Next, we need an adapter that connects the six millimeter shaft of the motor to the eight millimeter metal rods. Such adapters can often be salvaged from 3D printers. Only problem is that they are semi flexible. So due to this fact, and also to stabilize the rotating components, I added a metal support construction consisting of a steel base plate and two pieces of flat steel in combination with a ball bearing. To finalize the plan, I added a 3D printed circle and a 3D printed cuboid to the later rotating metal rods. This circle will house the LED strip, as well as the hall effect sensor, and the cuboid will, therefore, house an Arduino along with a LiPo battery and a suitable charge protect boost circuit to provide 5 volts for the system. And now that the plan is complete, let’s get to the practical part. I started off with this steel base plate which had a width of 20 centimeters as well as a height of 20 centimeters and the thickness of 2 centimeters. Through the help of my metal ruler, I marked its horizontal and vertical center lines in order to determine the exact center of the plate. Then, I unscrewed the two bolts that held the motor together and removed the lower part of it, which contained the characteristic carbon brushes of a DC motor. I positioned this part of the motor on the center point of the steel plate and used it as a template to mark the two screw holes of the motor onto the plate. By using a prick punch, I created deeper indentations into the material and, afterwards, used them as a guide to create two holes through the material with a 4 millimeter drill bit. After making sure that the bolts of the motor, pushed through the newly created holes, would align with the previously utilized templates; I grabbed a 9.5 millimeter drill bit in order to Increase the hole diameter. But only up to a depth of around 5 millimeters. This way a self-locking M4 nut could sit flush with the surface inside the indentation. Now, before securing the motor to the steel plate though, I had to mount metal brackets to the plate as well. For that, I marked the center point of its width, aligned it with the horizontal center line of the plate on its left side, marked the two mounting holes, and then created them with a 5 millimeter drill bit. After, once again, enlarging the hole partly with a 9.5 millimeter drill bit in order to, this time, accommodate the bolt heads; I secured the brackets to the plates with two M5 bolts and self locking nuts. Next, it was time for the flat steel, which had width of 4 centimeters, a depth of 4 millimeters and a height of around 50 centimeters. I simply leaned it onto the brackets, secured it in place with a clamp, and marked the position of two mounting holes onto it. After, once again, enlarging the indentations for the holes and drilling them with a 5 millimeter bit, it was time to come back to the motor. As you can see, it was no fun inserting the rotor in between the carbon brushes. But once they were connected, I pushed the two halves of the motor back together. Now to finally mount the motor to the steel plate, I utilized an M4 threaded rod. After marking a length of 8.5 centimeters on to it, I created two pieces of this length, through the help of a simple handsaw and then added an M4 self-locking nut to one end of the two pieces. This way, we can insert the threaded rods through the center mounting holes, push the motor onto them, screw them in place, and finally secure them once more with another self locking nut. Next, I secured the adapter to the shaft of the motor and got myself an aluminum rod with a diameter of 8 millimeters, which I mounted to the other side of the adapter. At this point, I created a 3D model of the circle and the cuboid with the 123D design software and printed them both with my Delta 3D printer. The results were certainly not perfect, but definitely good enough for this project. So, I slipped the circle onto the aluminum rod and marked height of around 4 centimeters above it, at which we can cut the rod. After reinserting it into the adapter, it was time to temporarily secure the flat steel to the side of the steel plate in order to mark a spot onto it 2 centimeters underneath the top of the aluminum rod. I then cut the flat steel at this indication point, and continued by marking mounting holes for a second bracket onto the other end of the flat steel. After creating the holes, the same way I described it dozens of times already, I mounted the bracket temporarily to the flat steel, in order to position it on top of a second piece of flat steel to once again mark the holes and then drill them. This way, I connected the two flat steel pieces together through the brackets and then mounted this newly created construction to the side of the steel plate. Next, I utilized my metal angle by positioning it exactly on top of the middle line, and transferring this line onto the stabilization construction. So, after removing this top flat steel piece, and marking the center point of the newly created line; I utilized it as a guide to drill a hole with a diameter of, firstly 5, and then 13 millimeters. But since that was still too small for the ball bearing, I got myself a step drill and started enlarging the hole even more. Only problem was that I quickly drilled into the surface of my table. So, I was forced to enlarge the hole up to a diameter of 22 millimeters with a hand drill. Now, the ball bearing did not fit easily inside this hole. So, I grabbed one fresh from the freezer and hammered it into position. At this point, I removed all the temporary bolts and nuts, and replaced them with shorter bolts and the corresponding self-locking nuts. And after adding the top flat steel piece, inserting the aluminum rod into the ball bearing, and sliding the circle, as well as the cuboid, onto it; the only thing left to do for the mechanical bolts was to mark the mounting holes for the circle and the cuboid, and create them slowly and carefully with a 3 millimeter drill bit. The last thing to do was to, once again, slide the pieces onto the aluminum rod, secure them all with M3 bolts and self locking nuts, and supply power to the motor wires to take it all for a little test spin. As you can see, it rotated pretty fast and, more importantly, without vibrating too much. Which means, it was time for the electronics. There are actually just a few components we need for this project. The first one, and probably most important one, is an APA102 LED strip with a density of a whopping 144 LEDs per meter. After partly peeling off its protective tape, I additionally used a bit of hot glue on one circle half, in order to properly stick the LED strip onto it. And once I was close to the top, I cut the strip, soldered a the wire to each one of its contact points, and afterwards glued the rest of it onto the circle. Next, I soldered a wire to each lead of the U18 Hall effect sensor, marked the middle point of the circle half without LEDs, and utilized hot glue to secure the Hall effect sensor in this position. After also gluing its wires to the circle, adding a magnet to the flat steel close to the hall effect sensor, and hooking up a pull-up resistor, and powering the sensor; we can see that it changes its output state whenever it passes by the magnet. We can use this indicator later on to properly display images with this POV system, but, for now, I secured the wires to the rod with zip ties and soldered all the data wires to the Arduino according to my finalized schematic of this project. Which you can find, as always, in the video description. To power the system, I got myself a 1,100 mAh LiPo battery; to which, I glued my homemade charge protect boost circuit, which I will show you how to make in another video. After soldering the battery wires to its terminals and hooking up its output wires to the oscilloscope, we can see that, by flicking its power switch, it creates a stable 5.1 volts. And in case you don’t have such a circuit, you can also use a TP 456 in combination with a boost converter as a replacement, it’s just a bit more bulky. Anyway, after soldering all the power wires together and using shrinking tube to protect them from shorts, I uploaded a simple test sketch to the Arduino, flip the power switch, and realize that everything works like it was supposed to. So to seal the deal, I use duct tape to firstly, secure the battery with power circuit to the cuboid, and then secure the Arduino to it as well. And at this point, the hardware part of this project was complete, and it was time for another test run. Which showcased that, even at a motor input voltage of 5 volts, this system was mechanically not very stable, and anything above 5 Volts would have led to certain destruction. I think it would been a good idea to add a second flat steel on the other side of the system, but, nevertheless, the light show was still pretty amazing to look at. So I created another piece of code, which pretty much only cycles through the different colors. But even something as simple as that already looks pretty awesome. But keep in mind that the camera can’t do it justice here, since it introduces weird flickering, which you normally cannot see with the human eye. Another sketch that I created stores boolean values in different arrays in order to create letters, which also worked out pretty well with the LED globe. Now, I’m definitely not the best animation creator / programmer; so, I hope you give a project like this a try and create / share your artwork along the way. As always, I hope you enjoyed watching this video. If so, consider supporting me through Patreon to keep the show going. Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe. Stay creative! And I will see you, next time!
if you are looking for easy-to-use regenerative energy source nowadays then your best bet is to do those solar panels by simply shining light on them they can create an output voltage that is capable of powering small loads or even bigger ones if we increase the size of the solar panel but how can we reach their maximum power outputs and how do we have to wire them up to for example charge up a battery let’s find out if we have a closer look at this 100 watt solar panel we can see that it consists of individual solar cells those basically make up all commercially available solar panels and of course you can buy such cells online as well after soldering a tap water to the prawns SD – terminal empty bag SD plus terminal we can use a multimeter to measure voltage up around 0.5 volts when light hits the cell surface that is pretty much the maximum output voltage of one cell which is also the reason why a solar panel connects many of those cells in series in order to increase the output voltage my 100 watt panel for example connects 36 cells in series to create an open circuit voltage of around 14 point 3 volts but if you are not thinking about soldering many bare solar cells in series instead of buying a proper solar panel to save a bit of money then it is noteworthy that those cells are extremely brittle and thus can be hard to work with so having a proper housing for the cells is definitely worth the money now if we have a closer look at the smaller solar panel we can see it there consists of 12 cells in series but creating such a serious connection also has one big negative side effects just imagine that the cloud could partly prevent lights to get the complete surface of the solar cells that means that one part of the serious action now features much higher resistance and since current meets the flow to all the cells the power outputs would decrease drastically as an example we can hook up a five millimeter red LED which draws 3.8 million from the solar panel and thus creates output voltage of one point seven six volts which equals an output power of six point seven million watts but if I cover the last two cells of the panel so one sixth of the complete surface the LED only draws 2.2 million at an output voltage of 1.71 volts which equals an output power of 3.8 million what’s that means the power decreased by 43% while the surface area are only degrees by 17% that is terrible to solve this problem we could add so-called bypass diodes in parallel to each cell so that current could flow through it instead of the higher resistance solar cell obviously with panels this smaller this does not make much sense but if we take a look inside the junction box of the 100 watt panel we can actually see two diodes those are placed in between behalf of the solar cells empty plus and minus terminal of course this is not the ideal solution but through the two diodes the panel can uphold the power outputs if one half of the panel is starting by clouds or something similar another kind of diode you often see here are so called blocking diodes and are used when solar panels are connected in parallel in order to decouple them from one another and prevent reverse current flow through them and now that we know how solar panels are wired up it is time to use different loads to test out their power output potential but to lower your optimism right from the start we will probably never get 100 watts from 100 tunnel since those characteristics were determined under so-called STC’s aka standard test conditions those includes any radians of 1,000 watt per square meter a solar cell temperature of 25 degrees Celsius and an am value of 1.5 which means that the sunlight travel to an air mass of 1.5 times D value up the atmosphere with my 0.6 watt panel here for example I achieve no power of 16 point 5 millivolts with a green LED and output power of 13 point 2 millivolts move a blue LED and an output power of 9.5 milliwatts with red LED but why does the output voltage vary that much depending on what kind of load I attach we can find the reason by having a look at lease implied equivalent circuit diagram of a solar cell if no load is attached so an open circuit it acts like the constant current source that lets the current flow through diodes which therefore create the characteristic cell voltage of around half of alts parallel to that we got a resistor which represents the power losses caused by the semiconductor material defects and at the end we got a series resistor which represents the power losses two wires terminal connections and so on if we now add a load to the cell the current from the constant current source device itself and creates more complicated electrical Network but what we know for certain is that by varying the load on the outputs we should be able to find an optimum at which we can draw the most power from the cell so I got myself my DIY power logger hooked up the solar panel were five kilo ampere and Charmander loads inserted a micro SD card and started slowly decreasing the resistance of the loads while simultaneously D constantly changing voltage and current values we’re saved on the SD cards afterwards I imported the acquired data into Excel and created a suitable XY diagram after printing it out and connecting the dots to one another we can see two characteristic points first off the open circuit voltage where no current flows empty short-circuit current where there’s almost no voltage those values are pretty always mentioned on a solar panel but what is also mentioned on my solar panel is the NTP voltage and current nppes stands for maximum power points which is not visible in my diagram so forth so I multiplied the current and voltage values and added a power line in the diagram which makes our maximum power point easy to find this point equals an output voltage of around four point four volts and the current of four milliamps so load resistance of 1100 ohms now of course you don’t want to simply add a resistor book the required value to the outputs and be happy about that you can heat it up the most efficient way you usually want to charge up a battery that is where we can use charge controllers the best ones of this kind of so-called MPPT ones or maximum power point tracking ones those usually utilize some kind of switching converter to act as the ideal MPP loads and thus a charge of the battery other more inefficient kinds simply use PWM to charge of the battery but they do not try to find the MPP and thus can decrease the efficiency of up to 40% and with that being said you already know quite a bit about solar panels and how to use them properly if you learned something new don’t forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next time
Hello friends! In this video I’ll show how you can measure the speed and energy of a bullet fired from a coil-gun. I compiled the coilgun model according to the attached circuit. The main parts of an electromagnetic gun are a storage capacitor, a coil and a projectile. When the capacitor is discharged to the coil, a magnetic field arises that accelerates the projectile. To measure the speed and energy of the bullet, I made several measurements that I entered into the calculator. That’s how I measured the distance from the coil to the target. The core of the bullet I made of mild steel and attached to it the tip and stabilizer. I weighed the bullet on the scale. To measure the flight time of the bullet, I connected two sensors to the Audacity free program. I put the inductive sensor near to the Gauss Gan coil, and the piezoelectric sensor attached to the target. As a result, I got the value of the speed and energy of the bullet, as well as the efficiency of the gun. How could I resist not shooting at tins…? I wishing you successful projects and creative inspiration!
Lpatop Repair IMPORTANT Addition
A lot of motherboard failures are not a direct result of ―mother Natureǁ or the mis-use or even
thermal or mechanical breakdown. There are other Not Well Known ways a motherboard component
can fail. Packaging and Storage is one. The moisture content and chemical exposure in the packing
materials can greatly affect the longevity and stability of the Motherboard and Components thereof.
This can cause ―motherboard Warpǁ, it can also deteriorate certain affected components on the
board, even damaging the contacts. It will deteriorate the wires and cables making them brittle and
fragile, it can cause a lot of harm.
Another hidden cause left undiagnosed can be an incorrectly covered trace or land (manufacturer
defect). This can cause shorts, it can cause trail blow-outs because the heat generated from the PCBs
components will further wear away at the fault areas, causing that component to fail, which for
example can throw dc voltage through a path requiring no dc.
Another hidden cause left undiagnosed is a solder chip or ball that was left on the board after the
manufacturer completed build on the board. This piece might have stuck to an area on the board
having a ―negativeǁ contact, then at some point that chip or ball was knocked loose being knocked
around inside the laptop until eventually touching a voltage regulator positive pin arm or similar
components power contact. Which; in turn, would blow that; or any related component, leaving no
Hey everyone. I’m Max Dalton, and in this video I’m going
to show you how to charge your JBL Charge 4 Bluetooth speaker. The JBL Charge 4 speaker sits in the middle
of the rotation in JBL’s portable wireless Bluetooth speaker lineup, between the Flip
4 and the larger Xtreme. The Charge 4 pumps out an impressive 30 Watts
of power, has a battery life of 20 hours, supports connecting multiple Bluetooth devices,
has a USB port to charge other devices, and has an IPX7 waterproof rating. Charging your JBL Charge 4 Bluetooth speaker
is fairly straightforward. All you need to charge your Charge 4 is a
USB Type C cable and a USB adapter to connect to an AC power source. Now let’s walk through the steps to charge
your JBL Charge 4 Bluetooth speaker. Step 1. Locate the input cover on the back of your
JBL Charge 4 speaker. The input cover is located in the bottom center
part of the back of your device, directly above the base the speaker stands on. Open the cover. This reveals inputs for a 3.5mm audio cable,
a USB Type C cable, and a regular USB cable. Step 2. Connect the large end of the USB Type C cable
to either a high-power USB port on your laptop or some other device, or to a USB power adapter
that connects to a power outlet. Don’t connect the cable to USB ports on a
computer monitor, desk phone or other similar devices, as these are generally low-power
USB ports and not high-power USB ports. Step 3. Connect the small end of the USB Type C cable
to the USB Type C input, which is the left-most port on the back of your JBL Charge 4 Bluetooth
speaker. If possible, use the USB Type C cable that
came with your JBL Charge 4 speaker. If the USB Type C cable is connected properly,
you’ll see one or all of the five LED lights located directly above the base stand on the
front bottom part of the speaker light up. The number of LED lights that light up depends
on the JBL speaker’s current charge. For example, if your battery has an extremely
low charge you’ll see a single red light. Alternatively, if your speaker is fully charged,
you’ll see five LED lights lit up. If no lights come on after connecting the
USB Type C cable, connect the USB cable to a different power source. If you’re still not having any luck, try using
a different USB Type C cable. Congratulations! You now know how to charge your JBL Charge
4 Bluetooth speaker. Thanks for watching. Leave your thoughts and questions in the comments
section below. If you liked what you saw here, click the
video link on the right side of the screen to check out another video, or click the logo
on the left side of the screen to subscribe to this channel to see more great videos like
How to Repair Computer UPS [ Bangla tutorial ]
Five, four, three, two, one.
(car engine roaring) (upbeat music) This is a 1968 Porsche 912 powered by a Tesla drivetrain. It’s not just fast; it’s the culmination of a years-long boom in taking vintage cars
and retrofitting them with EV technology. It’s the brainchild of two guys: David Bernardo, the founder
of Zelectric Motors, a shop that restores old
cars with a modern twist, and Michael Bream, the founder of EV West, which specializes in
high-performance modifications. (Michael Bream laughing) (lighthearted music) Zelectric started out
as a personal project. I wanted to take a Volkswagen
and make it electric. I would’ve liked to have done a bus, started with that, but
they’re crazy pricey. Back when we started, you
can get a nice car for $7,000, $8,000, $9,000. So we got a nice ragtop
and were determined to make that electric. We started in 2010,
and there were probably three or four years that
the phone just didn’t ring. The email inbox was mostly empty. But it wasn’t really until
this last three years or so that the public’s really turned onto this. During that time, Tesla went from a kooky startup on the fringes of Silicon Valley to the most serious
player in electric cars. As soon as Tesla came
out, my interest grew in taking a classic car
and make it electric because their first electric
car didn’t look like an appliance. Michael and
David have been working together for almost a decade now and have a growing list of happy customers and eager buyers, and that’s let them take on more complicated and expensive builds like the Volkswagen Microbus. I mean, we get emails every single day from people all over the planet, and it’s their favorite vehicle. They want that to be electric. And I disappoint a lot of people because our focus is just
Volkswagens and Porsches from the ’50s and ’60s, and that’s keeping us super busy. It’s keeping us all very,
very busy right now. Our waitlist to get in the shop now extends three to four years out, so we’re booking appointments for 2023. Despite
that increasing workload, Michael and David were eager to take on a bigger challenge. That’s where the Tesla-powered
Porsche 912 comes in. This customer brought it in, thought it was a fantastic project. A little bit of a
challenge, engineering-wise, because the car is much smaller than the cars that we’re
pulling the components out of. A Tesla drive unit comes out of a 5,500-pound car, and we’re
trying to shoehorn it into about a 2,300-pound car. The result
of that engineering is 550 horsepower and
4,500 pound-feet of torque. The donor car was a Tesla P85 from which they pulled out the motor, inverter, the rear differential, and even the throttle pedal. Zelectric doesn’t use the Tesla battery because it weighs too much. Instead, they use a 32kWh LG Chem battery pack, split into two 16kWh portions to balance out the car. This 912 will also lay the
groundwork for future builds. EV West plans to sell a 912 conversion kit for roughly $50,000. There’s a surprisingly long history of people tinkering with electric cars. But lately, the cost of the technology that powers them has gone way down while the availability of the parts and the knowledge of
how to put them together has gone way up. This has resulted in a boom of weird, cool, and increasingly fast custom EVs. I had very low expectations because the electrified VWs I’d seen online were just Frankenstein’s monsters. They’re filled with golf cart batteries in the back seat and strange motors. They really were bad. So I assumed it was going to be like that and that I’ll do the test drive, it’d be interesting. But I wasn’t going to buy one, and I was blown away. That’s Paul Stone and his 1966 electric Beetle. He’s one of Zelectric’s first customers. The first time I drove it and got out onto the street and really stepped on the accelerator, it blew me away. In first gear, it’ll throw
you into the back seat. This isn’t Paul’s first time buying into electric drivetrains. He says he was one of the first Prius owners in California, and so the work that EV West and Zelectric are doing
makes sense for him. But the idea of messing
around with vintage cars, especially retrofitting
them with EV tech, isn’t for everyone. You get two reactions: either people think it
is the greatest thing and great for repurposing an older vehicle or it is sacrilege, blasphemy. I think part of the experience of having a classic car is to have the driving experience of a classic car, and it depends on what your needs and your wants and your desires are. In some ways, retrofitting
an electric motor to a car that didn’t have one originally, it defeats the purpose a little bit of having a classic car
or having a vintage car because most people who have those kinds of vehicles want the
authentic motoring experience. And you can’t get that
with an electric motor in your Volkswagen Bug or your Porsche or any other car that
you want to retrofit. If you’ve got a rare car, a really rare car like a Porsche 901, one of the pre-911 Porsches, and you want to convert
it to an electric car, it’s yours, you certainly can do that, but you’re diminishing the hobby by taking something very rare, something very important and modifying it, likely to the state that it will be very difficult to return it to its original configuration. Michael
and David say they try to construct their cars so
they could be converted back, though they don’t really
expect that to happen. But Leslie Kendall’s comments
illustrate a larger point: of course some of the people
who have spent decades, maybe even most of their lives, finding, restoring, collecting, tuning, and showing off vintage cars aren’t going to like what shops like Zelectric and EV West are doing. It goes past vintage cars, too. Electric racing series like Formula E have needed to work extra
hard to prove themselves alongside traditional racing series. And while EV sales are slowly
ticking up around the world, consumers in the US are actually buying more gas-guzzling SUVs and
trucks in the near-term. I think a lot of people think we take perfectly good running
cars and convert them. And what we actually do
is more along the lines of what happened with the 912, where you have a car, kind of incomplete, kind of rusty, and it’s right on the edge of maybe just going to the junkyard and being done. And these cars are great because they typically don’t have the engines in them.
You can get a good deal, and that’s what we have here with this. The public, in general, is
not going to jump through hoops to move a new technology forward. But if you make it a little bit easy, if you make it convenient, then that’s actually a very
good reason for the public to participate in moving
forward that technology. The electric
car revolution is not a shift that will happen overnight, but shops like EV West and Zelectric and projects like the
Tesla-powered Porsche are signs that car culture
is starting to adapt to this new reality — and
they have the order books to prove it. Hey, everybody. Thanks for watching. Make sure to like and subscribe
if you like this video. And now I’m going to leave you with a bunch of Tesla-powered