hello everyone, in this video today we will see how to modify the LED strips of a TV to be able to feed it with less voltage and not with such high voltages with which these televisions are designed they are more than seen, that these designs make LEDS work at full capacity in terms of voltage and milliamps because of that they have less lifespan and it has become a frequent failure This modification may be useful when the original source cannot be repaired for any reason. and it will also serve to adapt these LED strips to lamp televisions as you can see here I have my “guinea pig” this TV that is broken from the display but the lighting panel is in good condition so it will help us to do the tests right now you can see it
working with its original lighting in the end we will compare it with the result of the adaptation and remember NOT to advance the video so they don’t lose details. I just want to tell you something very fast for those who watched the previous videos where I show some evidence experimenting with a capacitive source and then with a fountain and recovered from a Chinese lamp well those projects were discarded for security reasons that’s why the videos were deleted and you should not try to do as a solution since there is a high risk of electric shock for the user That’s why I bring you this modification that is safer and more efficient We will start by seeing some tests that we do to the original TV source here we are going to see the
TV with its original source and this is the image in the end we will compare it with the finished modification I have the multimeter on the 200 scale
volts of direct current let’s measure voltages let’s turn on the television checking the source that delivers voltage to
the LEDS and when turning on the LEDS we see that it measures 42 … 43 volts here at this point we see a high voltage of 145 volts at that voltage this source rises, without the charge of the LEDS and conforms to the required voltage we will use this other 24 volt source to turn on the LEDS now we will verify the amperage, the multimeter is already on the 10 ampere scale we interrupt one side of the line towards
the LEDS and is already connected to the alligators at
Multimeter we turn on the TV and we have a reading of 0.35 amps that are 350 milliamps we will do a test with an external panel this one has 8 LEDS per strip are connected to the original source we have connected the TV and in
idle state has 23.3 volts let’s turn on the television the panel lights up and we have a
50.5 volt reading this shows that the voltage of this source is high and adapts to the consumption with respect to the amount of LEDS so this is what we will do at the top we see the serial connection if they were for 3 volts each LED we need a total of 48 volts for it to work but if we modify it by connecting it in parallel we would only need half that is 24 volts let’s do it physically with this external panel so they can see the connection change we connect the wires one to the positive of
the secondary source and the other land we have it connected to the multimeter to
monitor voltage we connect the television and we have the presence of 25.3 volts and are connected to the panel in series but they don’t turn on … because we need approximately 48 or 50 volts we will make the modification connecting the LED strips in parallel .. as we saw in the scheme I disconnect momentarily .. I place
positive with positive of the two LED strips and we also connect .. the negatives that’s it, we connect the voltage again and we see that they light with good
intensity we check the voltage and there are 21.8 volts, powered only with
the secondary source Now we are going to modify the LED strips
of the television here are the cables we will make some cuts here we join the positive and the negative
with the first strip we will do the same with the second I will put some increases because they fell short here it is … you have to insulate these ties with thermal insulation because the insulating tape peels off over time Let’s now test the voltage. are already
the cables connected to the secondary source and also to the multimeter …. now we will connect the TV we have the cable here …
we connect light well with a voltage of 20.5 volts We will now check the amps … we already have everything connected. let’s plug in the TV and we see that it starts with 0.46 0.40 which is 400 milliamps is more
than the original source we will try to lower it a bit, we will do it with a resistance of low value here we will do the tests on these
alligators will test different resistance values we connect again and now I will first try connecting directly we see that it has 0.36 360 milliamps and
here we will be verifying the changes let’s try first with this 100 ohms it’s a lot but for them to see the
difference the intensity drops and we only have one record … a reading of 50 milliamps now we will place a 6.8 ohms and we see that it turns on with 250
milliamps this … it’s ok you should see the image but … let’s go up a little more so that the image is closer to the original I will place this 2.2 ohms ok we see that it has 320 milliamps is
less than 350 of the original let’s finally check the voltage
already with the resistance of 2.2 ohms we connect it illuminates very well and we see that it has
a reading of 19.7 much better and the lighting is very good let’s try not to overheat after a few hours of trying we see that almost nothing heats up ..
let’s arm the television now ok, let’s do a preliminary test and we have connected the LEDS panel only to the secondary source through the
2.2 ohms resistance we connect the television there it is … but it turns on directly We will now see how to turn the LEDS on and off now we need the LEDS to
turn on and off just like the TV on televisions in which the
secondary sources they are activated just like the TV there will be no problem to connect the LEDS but we saw that in this model .. the secondary source the voltage has it present all the time and then we must find a voltage
under 3.3 or 5 volts that are activated after turning on the TV and when turning off the TV returns to 0 volts we will use the relay circuit that we saw in the previous tests I will show you the scheme and then we will connect it for the final test so in this television model we must find a low voltage that is activated after turning on the TV can be 3.3 or 5 volts here I found it in this regulator we will only verify that the voltage is
present at this point after the TV is turned on and off … return to 0 volts let’s connect we have
the black tip connected to the chassis and place the positive tip
to that regulator we proceed to turn on the television ..
and we see that we have 4.93 volts 4.90 on the TV … let’s
turn it off and when we turn it off we will see that it returns to 0 volts now here you can see the scheme it is already installed now we will see the connections the positive that activates the relay goes to the secondary source the relay negative goes to ground and also to the LEDS negative the cable that drives the relay through the transistor goes to the 5 volt source and the switch wires connect one to the secondary 24 volt source through 2.2 ohms resistance the other side of the switch goes directly to the lighting panel to the positive of the LEDS the TV is connected .. let’s turn it on here we can see the image and we will compare it now with … the image of the original source here we have the comparison and you can see
that there is not much difference you can also reduce the voltage further
if we divide the led strips into two parts as you can see in this scheme, only
we would need 12 volts to make them work well this modification has been a success
I want to thank colleague Rick Espinoza for your collaboration for the realization of this video and remember that I always try to help you contributing ideas solutions and alternatives so I hope you support me too SUBSCRIBING TO THE CHANNEL if you have not already done so leaving his “I LIKE” if they liked the Video and SHARING so that it reaches more people that’s all this time see you soon if GOD allows it

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• December 4, 2019 at 6:41 pm

Hola sr Jesus, saludos amigo!, muchas gracias por compartir.

• December 4, 2019 at 7:01 pm

En lugar del rele creo que se podía utilizar 1 o 2 transistores conectando el colector de un npn a la salida + para los leds y el emisor al + de las tiras de led, y podría ser controlado por la base con otro transistor de baja potencia.

• December 4, 2019 at 7:03 pm

Excelente proyecto profe, mis más sinceras felicitaciones!!

• December 4, 2019 at 7:05 pm

Excelente estimado! Me alegro mucho que publicaras esa modificación… Muy buena idea lo de la resistencia… De seguro a los colegas les será de mucha ayuda… Un abrazo!

• December 4, 2019 at 7:06 pm

Gracias,por el vídeo. 👍🏼

• December 4, 2019 at 7:58 pm

Luis Alfonso Galindo Gomez Dando un Me gusta antes de verlo. En cuanto a los videos Borrados ya tenia la solución con opto acoplador diferenciando los potenciales, quedando en modo aislado de cualquier peligro Saludos Señor Colega Jesus Lopez. Bogota Colombia

• December 4, 2019 at 8:06 pm

buen vídeo gracias , pero tengo una pregunta , si la fuente original de alimentación a los led se regula automáticamente dependiendo de la cantidad de led que tenga como he visto que ha realizado prueba y dependiendo de como estén conectadas las regletas porque no utiliza esa misma fuente si se regula regulara a los 24 v . decirle también que en mercado en cierta pagina muy conocida y no pondré nombre pero empieza por A hay fuentes para regletas las cuales se regulan automáticamente y puedes regular tu a gusto el ampere de consumo . lo dicho buen video

• December 4, 2019 at 8:34 pm

Tal vez no me exprese bien cuando dije que la fuente se adecua a la cantidad de LEDS pues no se auto regula, la fuente realmente produce más voltaje, el panel de iluminación baja ese voltaje de acuerdo a la cantidad de LEDS y esos LEDS trabajan pero forzandose, como dice un colega "estresados" si se puede llamar de alguna manera y por eso se sobre calientan, hasta emiten una luz azulada estando propensos siempre a quemarse, en cambio cuando se alimentan solo con el voltaje necesario la luz es blanca y no se calientan en exceso.
NOTA: al realizar el vídeo no tomé en cuenta que los 360 miliamperios en las dos regletas ya con la modificación a paralelo se divide entre ellas y estarían trabajando aproximadamente con 180 miliamperios, asi que pueden omitir la resistencia que usamos en el vídeo para bajar la corriente dependiendo del caso pues aquí estuvo bien ya que la fuente secundaria es de 24 y se necesitaban 21 aproximadamente con la resistencia bajo a 19.7 muy buenos por debajo de lo requerido y con una buena iluminación

• December 4, 2019 at 9:39 pm

excelente amigo jesus gracias por tomarse su tiempo en compartir sus conocimientos y explicarlos muy bien saludos desde venezuela

• December 4, 2019 at 9:49 pm

Exelente Jesús..pero que hay de verdad que " dicen" los ingenieros que para que los LED " duren" se deben alimentan con un voltaje variado que enciende y apaga 7 u 8 veces por segundo..?.. y que medidos con tester dan 3v por LED…OK… Y en el proyecto suyo ( muy clarito)..se alimentan con un voltaje continuo.. supongamos también con 3v cada LED..OK…¿ No sé quemarán más pronto?.. digo al NO apagarse para enfriarse…..muchas gracias

• December 4, 2019 at 10:21 pm

Felicidades saludos desde los reyes Michoacán México

• December 4, 2019 at 10:54 pm

gracias maestro

• December 5, 2019 at 12:04 am

Hola amigo transformador tengo una pantalla dañada podrías ayudarme te lo agradeseria es una philips 32pfl4901/f8e dicen que la targeta main esta dañada por culpa de la placa WiFi la retire y por un momento funciono pero a cabo de 10mits se apaga y solo prende el les de stanbay que mas podrá ser o puedes a ser un tutoría con esa falla x favos saludos de león gto México..

• December 5, 2019 at 2:01 am

maestro es posible tomar 24 y 12 voltios de la fuente y alimentar las regletas con ambos voltajes para dar 36 voltios que tengo regletas son 6 led suman 18 volts cada una y ambas en paralelo son 36 se podra y como o donde conseguir el suich que trabaje con 3.3 o 5 volts como se pide

• December 5, 2019 at 2:05 am

Esto no sirve para todas las pantallas como leds Edge

• December 5, 2019 at 2:16 am

gracias Dn jesus buen proyecto saludos

• December 5, 2019 at 3:43 am

Hola Jesús, recuerde que las tiras están en paralelo , entonces los 320ma se dividen entre las dos tiras LED ,quedando una corriente por LED de 160 ma un 50%menos en corriente . Saludos

• December 5, 2019 at 4:46 am

tengo un tv generico con el problema de imagen doble es lcd de 32 marca atvio el cual no dice en su tarjeta tcon incorporada cuales son las señales a cortar el panel es un 12A320AP32S4LV0 2 ya intente con dos tvs y nada podra hacer un video al respecto sobre ese tipo de tv

• December 5, 2019 at 4:55 am

exacto profesor . yo le suelo bajar 1 ho 2 voltios de el voltaje que entrega la fuente de poder de la placa que alimenta los led . muy buen video profesor sige asi 🙂👍

• December 5, 2019 at 6:15 am

Profe el único problema seria que al estar en paralelo si se quema un led va a seguir prendido aumentando el consumo de ampers verdad? en cambio en serie se apagarian y no habría problemas. Igual es un buen método cuando falla el circuito de backlight…

• December 5, 2019 at 6:38 am

Maestro como siempre un gustado siempre el ver tus vídeos gracias por las enseñanzas muchas gracias esperamos mucho más de ti maestrazo

• December 5, 2019 at 12:42 pm

Buen día, no soy especialista en televisores, pero me gusta probar. Así que hace un tiempo hice algo muy parecido y al poner un relé como activación se filtraba ruido a los parlantes de la TV y tuve que adaptar un circuito con MOSFETS npn y pnp para activar y desactivar. Obviamente no debe darse en todos los casos. A usted, no se le filtró ruido a los parlantes????? No es muy perceptible cuando hay audio de algún vídeo, pero una vez que lo escuchas es fastidioso. Saludos y felicitaciones por sus aportes.

• December 5, 2019 at 3:02 pm

Exelente trabajo 👍 Dios lo bendiga siempre. Gracias por aportar su valiosos tiempo y trabajo para ayudar a los demás

• December 7, 2019 at 6:41 am

Buen video estimado amigo…gracias por el aporte.

• December 7, 2019 at 1:26 pm

es mejor conectar los led en serie, conectarlos en paralelo tiene un problema y es como ajustar la intensidad q le llega a cada tira( que sea la misma, sobre todo con el paso del tiempo y deterioro desigual de los led), lo más simple es poner una resistencia a cada tira d leds. Pero esto consume energía y produce calor , en este caso con una sola resistencia 24×0.32= 7.68w. y si pones 2 resistencias que sería lo adecuado, 15w solo en las resistencias.